If I buy just one nd filter which should I buy, x2, x4 or x8?.
X8. It is much more likely that you will be able to compensate for too much filter factor than too little. After all, if you can use a x2 and compensate another stop by (e.g.) lowering the ISO speed, you didn't need the x2 in the first place.....
Agreed! I have a x4 and a x8 so can choose how much is needed. If I had to have just one filter though, the x8 would be best and for the same reasons noted already.Convinced yet?..
'what is better a regular or a gradient filter?..
They are totally different and screw-in round gradient filters are (mostly) worthless..
Just get an ND8 round and be done...
You need to tell us why you need an ND filter..
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For taking pictures in bright sunlight, outdoor portraits and running water..
All three filters are useful. The only thing you will have to worry about is the exposure factor or each filter. The .3 is one stop the .6 is two stops and .9 is three stops of exposure increase. But, remember is you combine filters you MULTIPLY the factors do not add them. I use the three filters when I am shooting...
All three filters are useful. The only thing you will have to worryabout is the exposure factor or each filter. The .3 is one stop the.6 is two stops and .9 is three stops of exposure increase. But,remember is you combine filters you MULTIPLY the factors do not addthem. I use the three filters when I am shooting..
You may need to explain what you mean here. Two stacked 1-stop filters equals two stops of light reduction, not 1 x 1 = 1. Similarly a 2-stop and a 3-stop stacked result in a 5 stop reduction, not 2 x 3 = 6. Same thing for the natural log expression: two 0.3 filters = 0.6, not 0.3 x 0.3 = 0.09..
The only sense in which multiplying would be correct is when neutral density is expressed as ND2, ND4, ND8 etc. In that case the "ND number" is 2^x number of stops e.g. 2^3 stops = ND8. In that case, multiplying the ND number would give you the corresponding result: ND2 x ND2 = ND 4 (2 stops); ND2 X ND4 = ND8 (3 stops). Is that the sense in which you meant?.
Don't baffle the poor lad..
Doto41, get an ND8 for your daylight work where you need long exposures. A screw in type from a good manufacturer will do fine. If you want a Graduated filter, then may I suggest a Cokin 'P' filter..
A graduated filter is light at the base and gets gradually darker further toward the top of the filter. Screw in type grads are useless, as they fool the metering system on your camera. With mine, I compose the shot, set the timer and then hold the Grad over the front of the lens. Be careful not to nudge the camera when it's recording the image, but hold it nice and close so no stray light gets in around the edge. If you compose, then set the timer going before the camera takes the shot, the metering will be locked and the darker portion of the filter will then in turn, darken the sky..
It's simple and very effective and you will immediately see the difference in your photographs. I use an ND8 hard grad, but you can get soft grads and in different strengths too, just the same as the screw in types.Good luck...
Cokin offers an extensive filter system in the "P" system, the one you should get; this includes a polarizer, neutral density and graduated filters.Rationally I have no hope, irrationally I believe in miracles.Joni Mitchell..