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Hi there, apologies in advance as this has probably been asked and answered a million times over..

Anyway I will give you what I'm looking to do and the responses will let me know if Im kidding myself on..

I currently own a Fuji S5500 with an added Teleconvertor. I take mostly action shots of my local Football Team (Soccer) in continuous shoot mode and here is the problem..

When the light is low or weather is bad my shots come out all blurred. I want to take the next step up but does that mean a DSLR or is there another option?.

I borrowed a Fuji 9600 but found the continuous shooting mode very slow and thought my S5500 performed better. I would also like to get "closer" to the action..

So do I make the jump from a point and shoot to a DSLR or is there another option?.

All within a 400 $600 budget..

All feedback much appreciated.

JIM..

Comments (13)

For what you want to do..

You pretty much need a DSLR and a long/fast lens (ie, expensive). Realistically your budget won't even cover the lens, much less lens and camera. You can try and cut corners - used camera, used/slower lens - but they will be reflected in the final results..

Jim Logan wrote:.

Hi there, apologies in advance as this has probably been asked andanswered a million times over..

Anyway I will give you what I'm looking to do and the responses willlet me know if Im kidding myself on..

I currently own a Fuji S5500 with an added Teleconvertor. I takemostly action shots of my local Football Team (Soccer) in continuousshoot mode and here is the problem..

When the light is low or weather is bad my shots come out allblurred. I want to take the next step up but does that mean a DSLR oris there another option?.

I borrowed a Fuji 9600 but found the continuous shooting mode veryslow and thought my S5500 performed better. I would also like to get"closer" to the action..

So do I make the jump from a point and shoot to a DSLR or is thereanother option?.

All within a 400 $600 budget..

All feedback much appreciated.

JIM.

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Comment #1

Thats the answer I most feared..

Ah well thanks anyway..

Back to the piggy bank to donate a few more pennies...

Comment #2

When using a continuous shooting mode on a bridge camera you can speed things up by selecting a smaller picture size. On my old Minolta D7 I could actually get 7fps bursts at low resolution. The Fuji 9600 is indeed slow at 1.5 fps..

Today on an Olympus 560UZ you can get 7fps at 3mp and 15fps at low res. There is even a camera offering 60fps coming on the market soon..

But if you want top quality then it needs to be a DSLR with a good lens..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #3

Now having taken the comments on board, and I do take the Pro DSLR route what exactly am I looking for and at what cost?..

Comment #4

Jim... You need to tell us at what level you want to be taking pictures at Football (Soccer) matches. To get the frame rate, tthe Pros have long used 4 megapixel Nikon DSLRs with expensive fast lenses. viz:http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Nikon/nikon_d2hs.aspCost with lens for the job? around 3K+.

So my suggestion of an Olympus 560UZ with 13fps at 3mp wasn't without consideration for amateur use..

You can however get 3fps with a Nikon D40X and Pentax K10D. The lens you'd need is dependent on what kind of access you have to the match site and how good you are at following the game. You'd probably need something that reaches out to 300mm (in 35mm film camera terms). (Say 250-350 for the dim consumer zoom lenses or 1250 for the brighter f2.8 pro spec). You'll be using high ISO to enable action-stopping shutter speeds..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #5

Obviously the 1250 lens is way over my budget..

My access to games is at touchline distance and usually resort to taking shots when the players are "near" me..

The S5500 actually does not a bad job and it's only when the weather is bad that the shots go fuzzy. So a big zoom inst essential as much as desirable..

Http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560566131OiUZuY.

Here you can find some of my "better" shots and any comments would be appreciated...

Comment #6

Checked out jessops.

Http://www.jessops.com/Store/s35963/0/Digital-SLRs/Canon/EOS-400D-(Black)-Body-Only-/details.aspx?&CatId=208&ManIds=1159,&SortBy=SkuOfferingPriceASC&IsInStockOnly=False&comp=y.

The canaon plus tamron combo may be around your budget..

Comment #7

From the touch line and with action close to you the longer zoom lengths are not so important and of course the aperture can be wider to keep a fast shutter speed. In bad weather you might find image stabilisation to be a help because it will at least cut out some of the camera shake problems from the equation; it won't help stop the action but you'll likely find that using Photoshop Curves and USM (or the Focus Magic plug in) will go a long way towards making the difficult shots look more acceptable through contrast control..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #8

Would the Canon 300D be a good entry level for me to do what I want i.e Sport Action Shots? and with a lens kit of# Canon 18-55 EFS lens# Canon 75-300 Ultrasonic Telephoto lens# Sigma 24mm 1:18 EXDG Macro lens.

Would this do the same job as the more expensive 400D?.

Found the above on EBAY for 250 and rahter than make the massive leap I was thinking of a wee step towards the DSLR Market might be a better option, for now....

JIM..

Comment #9

Will it do the same job? Essentially yes but at 6.3mp. The 18-55 kit lens range is not ideal and you'll be changing lenses and risking getting dirt on the sensor far too often. Work out the focal lengths that you'll want to use 90% of the time (likely to be 18-85 or 28-130mm in film camera terms?) and see if you can find a lens closer to that to cut out the number of changes.And what about warranty on the used camera?.

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #10

Ideally I would prefer to stick to one lens at the match therefore no changing..

Warranty, never even crossed my mind but something to look into..

So if push came to shove then go for the 400D and hope I get a deal with a 2 lens kit..

If I get a body and buy the lens separately, which lens would suit me better? Im not looking to spend hundreds on the lens just one that can give me the same quality as the S5500 but in very low light to cut out the blurry pics..

As said earlier, the S5500 was just so easy to use in the continuous shoot mode and only when the weather was poor did the problems arise of blurry shots. Continuous shoot mode meant that I got the ball in the shot, not being too clever I was laways missing the ball in my shots LOL..

Thanks again to everyone for the advise, it really does make a difference talking to people that appear to know what there talking about..

JIM..

Comment #11

Take a look at the lens performance data on this site; then you can look for used on the web..

Http://www.photozone.de/...s/55-surveys/337-canon-eos-lens-performance-survey.

18-85mm might suit your needs better than 18-55. Or 24 -105 could be OK for you..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #12

Thanks to everyone for there comments and advise. Just 1 more question..

I have had a look at both the 400D and the 350D and apart from the obvious differences like less mega pixels (8 v 10.2) I cant see a really big difference in these 2 models, am I missing something?..

Comment #13

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