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Weather protected, dust removal & stabilization?
As stated I'm looking for a system camera that is weather sealed/protected (including lens), has some kind of dust removal system and finaly image stabilization (doesn't matter if in lens or body). I have been pointed in the direction of the Olyumpus E-3, have done some reading and it seems to fit the bill but I have problems finding (cheaper) alternatives. What are they? Suggestions?.

The E-3 is listed at around $1500 and that's absolut MAX for me as you also have to get a good lens and other stuff. Anything cheaper is a BIG plus!.

The camera will be used outdoors, photographing "action/extreme" sports and not only on sunny summer days but most likley also in winter time and under other harsh conditions (at least compared to a studio)..

I'm probably going to be beaten for saying this, but image quality comes secondary. At best some (if any) picture will be published in a magazine or on the web and any camera in this price range will do just fine (as I know what I have been getting away with so far). It will be me, not the camera, that is the limiting factor..

Any thoughts, rants, ideas, suggestions etc are most welcome...

Comments (10)

That is a tough bill to fill. I know nothing about that camera mentioned, but to get something like that from Canon means spending a lot more. Though you could go with just about any entry level dSLR that has anti dust mechanisms (which arguably work) and get a waterproof sleeve for it for $200 and then you would be set..

Just a thought..

Benhttp://www.b3nbrooks.com/blog/..

Comment #1

Grus74 wrote:.

As stated I'm looking for a system camera that is weathersealed/protected (including lens), has some kind of dust removalsystem and finaly image stabilization (doesn't matter if in lens orbody). I have been pointed in the direction of the Olyumpus E-3, havedone some reading and it seems to fit the bill but I have problemsfinding (cheaper) alternatives. What are they? Suggestions?.

The E-3 is listed at around $1500 and that's absolut MAX for me asyou also have to get a good lens and other stuff. Anything cheaper isa BIG plus!.

Most similar in price and capabilities is probably the Nikon D300 + VR lenses although you may have to do some checking to determine which of those lenses are considered weather-sealed. A nice choice, if you can swing the cost..

Olympus so far is sealing all the lenses in the first two tiers, and none in the third the Sigmas and Panaleicas available for the system also are all non-sealed, IIRC..

Cheaper sealed bodies include some of the Pentax models. Relatively few sealed lenses, and relatively few large-aperture telephoto zooms of the sort that may be useful for your sports work. Not sure about the speed and accuracy of their AF system..

OTOH, Canon doesn't promise much in the way of weatherproofing below the 1D line some seals, but not say splash-proofing..

The camera will be used outdoors, photographing "action/extreme"sports and not only on sunny summer days but most likley also inwinter time and under other harsh conditions (at least compared to astudio)..

I'm probably going to be beaten for saying this, but image qualitycomes secondary. At best some (if any) picture will be published in amagazine or on the web and any camera in this price range will dojust fine (as I know what I have been getting away with so far). Itwill be me, not the camera, that is the limiting factor..

Your resolution requirements will probably not be too high especially compared to the requirement that you get the shot at the time you want, focused how you want. 12MP of just-missed-the-action might be frustrating..

Consider getting a used body something like a Nikon D2Hs might be a intriguing choice. Sealed body, large buffer in terms of frame count, 8fps, reportedly a none-too-shabby AF system, add something like a 70-200mm f/2.8 VR or so..

Edit Nix on the dust removal (didn't notice that, my bad), but I note that it should be easier to clean a sensor than it is to focus an unfocused image. If you're feeling paranoid, clean a sensor -before- you go to a shoot, so that you don't find dust the hard way..

Not that you're likely to see much sensor dust, if you're using wide apertures for narrow DOF and to make it easier to get short shutter speeds...

Comment #2

Since image quality is 2nd, the E3 is probably your best choice, not because the E3's image quality is bad, but because you might need long lenses that are fairly inexpensive like several Sigmas on the market. The Oly 300 f2.8 is absolutely ridiculously priced, IMO..

So, you'd have a nicely sealed pro level body and somewhat inexpensive unsealed long lenses..

You could probably get by a lot cheaper with the nicely sealed Pentaxes too. I just wouldn't worry so much about the lens being sealed..

I have some lenses going back to the 1960s that I've dragged through dust, mud, dropped, and other things without any problems. And, if you do destroy the lens, buy another. You said that image quality wasn't so important, so buy cheap long glass..

If you wish the very best, IMO, and can stand the price, I'd get a Nikon D3, or a D300 if you want to drop down a bit. These are weather sealed and made of tough solid magnesium. They don't have image stabalization in the bodies so you have to spend good money on VR lenses. These rigs are tanks and can take a lot of abuse, but way out of your money range. The D3 is probably the best serious professional sports camera today at any price...

Comment #3

The K200D and K20D have all the features you need...

Comment #4

And the range ends at an all too short 135mm..

Unless the new 300/4 is sealed..

Gene..

Comment #5

Zadam wrote:.

The K200D and K20D have all the features you need..

True.but at 3 frames per second, neither is that great for extreme sports shooting..

The E-3 is the OP's best choice.so he'll need to save a few more dollars!.

J. D.Colorful Colorado.

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Remember.always keep your receipt, the box, and everything that came in it!..

Comment #6

R Valentino wrote:.

And the range ends at an all too short 135mm..

Unless the new 300/4 is sealed..

Both DA 200mm f/2.8 and DA 30mm f/4 are weather sealed..

Edvinas..

Comment #7

Thanks for all replies, you really have given me food for thought!.

The second hand route is something you easily forget in this fast moving digital age. Dust removal is perhaps something I most likley can live without for now. Putting the money in the body and buy cheap glass sounds smart, especially since I won't be needing anything bigger then the eqvi. of 100-120 mm. And Pentax, way haven't I been informed about Pentax!? They seem bang on target for what has to be considered reasonable money..

Regarding lenses: I sounds like many of you is thinking about things like football and stuff when thinking of shoting sport but taking pictures of, say, skateboarding is nothing like that. Although I despise the terms "extreme" and such it really is kind of different compared to "normal" sports. Most skate shots for example are taken with a wide angel or even fish eye(!). It's not like sitting on the sideline with a gigantic zoom following the game but rather moving around pretty up close. Myself I'm into snowboarding and downhill mountainbiking and that sits somewhere between football and skateboardning but still closer to skateboarding in terms of me getting up on the mountain and close to the action. But sure, there are still times when you need a big zoom (surfers, climbers or big drops and decents springs to mind) but that's for the big boys that make a living on it and not for me..

As for stuff like burst rate and such, well, I've never had it before so I guess I will make do with whatever the camera I get offer. Still, I get the point of having it and realize more is better..

Once again, thanks for your replies ..

Comment #8

Grus74 wrote:.

As for stuff like burst rate and such, well, I've never had it beforeso I guess I will make do with whatever the camera I get offer.Still, I get the point of having it and realize more is better..

When shooting any sports, the difference between getting the shot and not getting the shot most of the time comes down to that extra two frames per second..

Those extra two frames per second will make a huge difference..

J. D.Colorful Colorado.

Remember.always keep your receipt, the box, and everything that came in it!..

Comment #9

MusicDoctorDJ wrote:.

Grus74 wrote:.

As for stuff like burst rate and such, well, I've never had it beforeso I guess I will make do with whatever the camera I get offer.Still, I get the point of having it and realize more is better..

When shooting any sports, the difference between getting the shot andnot getting the shot most of the time comes down to that extra twoframes per second..

Those extra two frames per second will make a huge difference..

J. D..

Listen to this guy. For any sports those extra frames per second can make or break you..

The kid sliding into base with the ball in mid-air 2 feet from the catchers glove and that intense look on everyone's face was probably shot at 6 or better frames per second where the photographer caught that perfect "Kodak Moment" shot from out of the middle of a stream of images. You poke along at 2.5 frames per second and that shot was missed. That's why pros like the new Nikon D3 for sports. It'll give you 9-11 frames per second. The chances triple for that one money shot. I don't expect you to buy a $5000 camera, just want to stress the importance of frame rate over even weather stripping, for what you're suggesting..

For example, and I like this shot for this example, here's an image I took last week. It's not a great image, but you can see how 6 frames per second on my D300 pays me. If you saw the image just in front and just in back of this, you'd see what I mean. They were worthless. I shot around 40 frames at 6 fps to get this one..

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Comment #10

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