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Tips for shooting cityscape panoramas in the daytime?
I would imagine the process to be rather difficult since there are people and cars moving in the foreground and background. Anyone here have tips on how to do it?..

Comments (7)

Sgt_Strider wrote:.

I would imagine the process to be rather difficult since there arepeople and cars moving in the foreground and background. Anyone herehave tips on how to do it?.

Things I've seen done include:.

1. Get up early, early in the morning (or late) when fewest people are around..

2. Use the longest exposure you can so the people/cars blur while the buildings stay sharp..

3. Pay for a shooting permit and police to block off a street for you  Movies do it all the time and there is one still photographer who works this way. It helps if you can sell your prints for tens of thousands of dollars..

Erik..

Comment #1

It isn't difficult; it is just a matter of shooting so that you have a selection of images with the people in different positions so that you can manaully, selectively blend the images to remove the redundant people and "ghosts". The tutorial at this location http://rfcgraphics.com/Ptgui/tutorialptgui.html should tell you enough to get started, then get out there and try it!.

Davehttp://www.pbase.com/dsjtecserv..

Comment #2

Dsjtecserv wrote:.

Http://rfcgraphics.com/Ptgui/tutorialptgui.html.

Looks easy doesn't it!!!Couple of things.....Use a tripod...Shoot in portrait mode (you get a 'taller' pano)..

..Use a Manual setting. I.e. set both the aperture and shutter identical for all shots...Good luck!..

Comment #3

The trick for shooting movement in a pano is simple: simply put the moving object or person in a single frame. this means that when you shot that object/person it is just like taking any other picture..

My how to on panos-.

To do panoramas-.

For panoramas- -use tripod. you must keep it level with the horizon. if your tripod does not have a level builtin then buy one that slides into your flash hotshoe. again make a max effort to get the camera level..

-for exposure. set the exposure by pressing halfway and noteing the fstop and shutter speed. you are trying to find the brightest part of you panorama scene to be. once you have found the brightest check the fstop and shutter speed. put camera into manual metering mode and use those settings. do not change them for any part of the panorama..

-lens selection. I shoot mine with a 20mm. tried a 35mm didn't work, the individual shots didn't overlap. the angle of view wasn't wide enough. note: SHOOT THE LENS VERTICALLY. this is the only way to get some vertical scene, otherwise the panorama will be shaped like a hotdog.

In vertical you are cutting your angle of view way down. my tripod has degrees engraved in the mount, I was shooting at only a 15 degree spread and in looking at the shots before stiching there wasn't that much overlap. I later shot panoramas with 35mm 50mm; the hot dog effect was more pronounced. the panorama itself did work..

-determine in advance the center point of the scene and try to go X number of shots on each side of it. for me with my setup a 120 degree scene is 7 shots; the center and 3 on each side. if I go with a 35mm lens then a 120degree scene will take 13 shots. no matter what lens you use realize that you are adding only 33% new scene with every shot, the rest is overlap for the right and left adjoining shots. the only exceptions are the end shots in the whole scene. it is possible to add another row above and/or below the first one.

You must make sure that there are no gaps..

- I stick my hand in front of the lens and shoot, then shoot the panorama, the 7 shots, then put hand in front of lens and shoot. later I know that everything between hands is the panorama..

-i have used cs2 or the panorama factory software to make the panorama. for either couldn't be simpler simply select the shots and it does the work. this is where using a level pays off. the software is leveling the scene to make the long rectangcal, but if the scene was not as level as possible in the first place the vertical becomes less and less(you end up with hotdog shape). so having the tripod and camera level is very important. also when mount and shooting vertically make sure the camera really is vertical, carefully check by looking threw the viewfinder.



-on focusing- what I do is to simply preset the 20mm lems at infinity, because of depth of field everything from 5.64ft to infinity is in focus at f11.0 distance 200ft. you can also use a hyperfocal focus setup. but thanks to the DOF table, just setting the lens at infinity is simpler. -i left WB alone, that is set at AWB; or you can use a preset setting like sunny or cloudy, but once set donot change it till panorama shots are done..

-online depth of field calculator available here- http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html.

-for panoramas, the software I use is either panorama factory orPTGui or cs2. the one that works best for me is PTGui. I have since gotton PTGuiPRO, expensive but worth it. has many features and abilities that the other software does not have, including the ability to process 360 and 720degree sphereical panoramas, plus many projection types...

Comment #4

I suggest Erik's #2 as the right approach if there are LOTS of people and cars..

Or use Gary's approach (ie, wait until people/cars are in the center of a frame) if there are a few people/cars..

You can also have one of your friends walk across your pano scene and you can take pix with him/her in each segment...just for fun..

Charlie DavisNikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D300HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..

Comment #5

On the TWIP (This Week in Photography) podcast I listened to this morning, they mentioned software that automatically merges several images and removes the moving people. I don't know if it removes cars too (probably anything that was moving) and they didn't say what the software was called, but did say they'd put details on their website. You might have to search for that.Androohttp://Androo.smugmug.com..

Comment #6

1. Sunday morning.

2. Don't worry about the cars and people. Try long exposures ( ND8 ) so you get them as moving blurs - gives a sense of the dynamic. Depends a bit on the sky. Even in normal exposures unless the people are very obvious you won't usually notice them. After all a panorama is big - little things like individual cars and so on don't get the attention of the eye..

3. Bomb scare ( OK, probably illegal and a bad idea ) .

4. Multiple cameras all shooting at the same settings at approximately the same instant at different points..

Personally I'd also suggest a big stick - a great deterrent to the criminal element who might notice all that expensive camera kit ..

StephenG.

Pentax K100DFuji S5200Fuji E900PCLinuxOS..

Comment #7

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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