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.tiff development???
I'm new at this. I have a new Canon 30d DSLR. I would like to develop 16 bit tiff (raw to tiff instead of raw to jpeg) photos. Does anyone know if it is possible to develop tiff photos at a local service ie. Walgreens, Walmart, etc? If yes how? I would print them myself but I do not have a good photo printer at home at this time..

Thanks for your help and input!..

Comments (7)

Anastasia wrote:.

I'm new at this. I have a new Canon 30d DSLR. I would like todevelop 16 bit tiff (raw to tiff instead of raw to jpeg) photos.Does anyone know if it is possible to develop tiff photos at a localservice ie. Walgreens, Walmart, etc? If yes how? I would print themmyself but I do not have a good photo printer at home at this time..

Besides, the fact that I don't think there are any 16 bit printers out there, so you would always have to convert at some point in the reproductive chain...

Have you got a specific reason for using Tiff files for storage and handling? They are very much larger to store and slower to deploy, and offer absolutely no advantage over highest (best possible) quality Jpegs..

In other words, why are you making life difficult for yourself?Regards,Baz..

Comment #1

Barrie Davis wrote:.

In other words, why are you making life difficult for yourself?.

Agreed. 16 bit files are great for making adjustments and perhaps saving as a master - but for printing an 8bit jpeg is fine as long as you use highest quality when saving...

Comment #2

If you want to develop to 16bit tiff then I'm pretty sure that the typical Fuji Frontier will accept tiff files at the front end. Easy enough to try out just develop some and store them on a flash drive and next time you're in Wmart upload them and see how it looks..

But what they do with them is anyones guess. Their software may convert them to jpg before it's sent to the printers RIP (Raster Image Processing), or they may just send the tiff to the RIP.....don't know enough about the RIP of the Fuji to answer that question.A member of the rabble in good standing..

Comment #3

I'm just learning about this stuff. I probably have misinterpreted 16 bit vs 8 bit prints. I thought there was a difference between 16 bit vs. 8 bit. If there is, I would most definitly go through the extra time for a "better" quality image. I also assmumed that lab photos like walgreens is capable of 16 bit print or is that something that can only be achieved by a high quality home photo printer or if at all?..

Comment #4

I was woundering. What kind of prints do say wedding photographers use when they print a customers wedding photo? Do they use raw convert to tiff 16 bit and print on high quality printer? or they use jpeg on high quality setting? They are in the buisness of producing the best quality (for the most part) photo for the customer and was just curious what that process is like?..

Comment #5

What do wedding photographers do? Some show RAW and process them to TIFF, others shoot RAW and process to JPEGs and yet others simply shoot JPEGS. It is all over the board, depending on the workflow the individual photographer prefers;).

8-bit vs 16-bit, what does it really mean?.

Each pixel in a TIFF file is made up of a red, green, and blue (rgb) value. In a 8-bit TIFF, each of those values is 0 to 255. In a 16-bit TIFF, the values *CAN* be from 0 to 65535..

The key word is can. My DSLR captures 12-bit RAW images, so each rgb has a value of 0 to 4095. Because there is no such thing as a 12-bit TIFF, when that is processed into a 16-Bit TIFF, the values are still only 0 to 4096. Actually I believe each value of the 12-bit image is stretch out to fix the full 65535 by multiplying each value by 16. This is just fine, fore no information is lost, there is simply more space in the 16-bit TIFF then is needed..

On the other hand, when you take that 12-bit RAW image and put it into a 8-bitTIFF (or JPEG's fore they are all 8-bits) what happens is the value is divided by 16 and the remainder is thrown away and the whole number is kept. An example, if you have a red value of 3751, you get 234r7, the 7 is discarded and the 234 is saved in the JPEG..

Normally the human eye cannot see 4096 different steps of each color, it seems that 256 colors of red, green, and blue is enough. So as far as I know, all printers simply take 8-bit images, either TIFF or JPEG..

If you simply shoot and print without doing any adjusting to exposure, 8-bit is all you need. On the other hand if you like to do heavy post processing to images like I do, then the higher bit images are very useful....

So why is 16-Bit better?.

What happens is if you have an 8-bit image that the whites color is rgb of 200, 200, 200 (out of 255,255,255) and then you adjust the levels to move that to say 250,250,250, there will be 50 values between 0 and 250 that don't have values. The lack of values means in a final print, there might be noticeable changes in tone..

Take the same image that starts life as a 12-bit RAW image, The 200, 200, 200 turns into 3200, 3200, 3200, a LOT more then 256 values. You make all the different adjustments you want and finally, once the image looks exactly the way you want it to look, then you convert the image down to a 8-bit image for printing. The end result is that there are no values between 0 and 255 of that 8-bit number left out!.

To see what I am talking about, open up a 8-bit image in Photoshop, adjust the levels down so that the highlight is on 200, click OK. Then open levels again and pull it back to 255, click OK. Finally open up the levels again and you will no longer see a smooth hisogram, but one that looks like a comb (it wll have gabs between it). Do the same thing to a RAW image and the histogram will stay nice and smooth!.

Samhttp://photos.miltonstreet.com..

Comment #6

Some will read 16 bit TIFFs, some will not. In any case, their machines would convert them to low quality 8 bit downsized JPEGs before printing. It is a waste of time and resouces to bring 16 bit TIFFs to such places, assuming that they will read those files..

I advise you to convert your photos to 8 bit sRGB JPEGs, downsized to 1200 x 1800 for a 4x6 print (or slightly different, depending on the lab). Use "bicubic sharper" in PS, if you want sharper prints. I have done experiments with my local CVS and Walgreens, and when I downsize the photo, the prints come out with much better quality...

Comment #7

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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