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Strange Flare (1 image)
Right, I'm not a very experiences photographer and don't know much so I'm hoping you could help me out a bit. I've found that occasionally I get strange lens flare (assuming thats what it is) appearing in my shots, in same position even with different lenses. It doesn't happen often, but it does seem to correspond with bright light. I've done a search and turned up no pictures that appear to have the same problem, so I was just wondering if this was normal, and whether it would be solved by simply using a lens hood?.

I've included a sample so you can see for yourselves.

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Cheers...

Comments (11)

A lens hood should be considered as the ultimate lens protection.......perhaps better than UV filters since it wouldn't degrade the lens quality as many of the filters can..

It is inexpensive protection and would help eliminate flare, but this seems more like an internal reflection. It might be worth a try in your case.Regards,Hank..

Comment #1

Yes, it looks like flare. Were you using a lens hood?.

Charlie DavisNikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D300HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..

Comment #2

Is the EXIF data correct? It shows ISO100, f/11, 1/3200s, or about 4 stops brighter than sunny f/16 rule and close to the limits of the camera. I think you were photographing an extremely high contrast scene, which is probably ideal for showing flare..

I've never seen flare that looked quite like that - it looks like a rocket launch!Do you have other examples?..

Comment #3

DaveKl wrote:.

Is the EXIF data correct? It shows ISO100, f/11, 1/3200s, or about 4stops brighter than sunny f/16 rule and close to the limits of thecamera..

Oooh, what is the sunny f/16 rule? (sorry to OP to go off topic)..

Comment #4

Verbylbelch wrote:.

DaveKl wrote:.

Is the EXIF data correct? It shows ISO100, f/11, 1/3200s, or about 4stops brighter than sunny f/16 rule and close to the limits of thecamera..

Oooh, what is the sunny f/16 rule? (sorry to OP to go off topic).

The Sunny 16 rule used to be a great help when shooting out of doors without an exposure meter. These days, if your camera meter is not working, it's pretty likely the whole camera is defunct....

Nevertheless, the Sunny 16 rule is so accurate it still acts as a useful guide to when a meter may be malfunctioning, which is Dave's point, I think..

To use the Sunny 16 Rule....

1) First set SHUTTER SPEED to reciprocal of ISO value, or as close thereto as possible. Examples....

100 ISO.. set 1/100th or 1/125th second. 400 ISO ..set 1/400th or 1/500th second..

2) Then set APERTURE in accordance with the following table....

Bright Sun (sharp-edged shadows) ... f/16 Hazy Sun (soft-edged shadows) ....... f/11 Cloudy Bright (no real shadows) ....... f/8 Cloudy Dull (likely raining soon) ......... f/5.6.

Note: If you find it difficult to choose between two brightness conditions, (say between Cloudy Bright and Cloudy Dull) don't bother with decision making... just set an intermediate f/number..

Anyway... that's the basic rule, just as it is printed in icon form on the inside of most film boxes..

Further Notes:-.

It works at all middling latitudes (which includes USA, Europe and Japan) Effective between two hours after sunrise and two hours before sunset,.

Accurate for average subjects like landscapes and garden scenes, street scenes, buildings etc...

Some special circumstances are listed below.....

Bright Sun on sand or snow, close down one whole stop to .. f/22.

Open Shade, (sunny day, but subject is shaded and lit only by blue sky) .. f/5.6 Close-ups ... open up 1/2 stop Side light ... open up 1/2 stop Back light ... open up 1/1 stop..

That's pretty much the whole rule.. not just the "Sunny 16" bit..

If you use it, may you do so in good health. Regards,Baz..

Comment #5

That's not flare. I'm sorry to have to tell you that's a classic (and pretty much completely guaranteed) sign of impending shutter failure..

For now you'll only see this arc at higher shutter speeds. As the shutter gets worse, you'll see it at lower shutter speeds, and eventually your shutter will fail entirely..

In the US, it'll cost you about $200 plus shipping to get your DReb/300D shutter replaced. It's your call, but if it were me I wouldn't bother putting that much into fixing a DReb/300D. I'd probably try to hold out until the end of January, when we'll know if there's a new Digital Rebel model coming in February, and then decide whether to get the new model or an XTi/400D...

Comment #6

What in the shutter that is failing gives you an arc of light?Just looking for a mechanism that gives a result like that.A member of the rabble in good standing..

Comment #7

LM2 wrote:.

What in the shutter that is failing gives you an arc of light?Just looking for a mechanism that gives a result like that..

I can't think of the 'how', either... but Doug seems very certain...[What a shame.]Regards,Baz..

Comment #8

LM2 wrote:.

What in the shutter that is failing gives you an arc of light?.

It's light leakage..

The arc is the the path of the shutter moving across the sensor. Light is leaking through, but at slower shutter speeds the amount of leakage is swamped by the normal exposure. At higher shutter speeds the leakage is noticeable..

In that picture (shot at 1/3200), there are two leaks. There is a fainter one a bit to the left of the main one...

Comment #9

That accounts for it and even explains the curve.If the mind holds out I may even remember it next time it shows up ";^)A member of the rabble in good standing..

Comment #10

Thanks everyone for the help, you all saved me from a lot of head scratching..

The exif data was correct, and having looked at all the other photos where it occurred, the shutter speeds were all over 1/1000th so shutter failure it is. Cack..

Thanks guys for solving that one for me..

Comment #11

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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