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Rock Concert Camera???
I'm a beginner who used to work with a manual Pentax K1000 from the 70's. My favorite lens to use was the macro. I wasn't too fond of the others. I am interested in buying a DSLR and would like to know which digital lenses out on the market closely resemble the macro?.

In addition to that, I am looking for suggestions on which camera would best suit my needs. I might not need a DSLR, but I'd like to be aware of as many options as possible. If it's not a DSLR, it has to take good quality NON-FLASH photos in low light settings (in apartments, CLUBS, at concerts, in the evening, etc), without blurring motion (image stabilization). I'm not a flash fan at all. I prefer images to look as true to life as possible. If it has to be an SLR, I would prefer one that can be toted without it being obvious you have an expensive camera with you.

I don't want it to be much of a burden to carry. It doesn't have to be a Pentax. I was told I should go for an SLR for the kinds of photos I wish to capture. I would like it to be easy to use...not too advanced (learning the camera lingo will come if I wish to learn more about cameras after playing around with beginners photography for a while) and as inexpensive as possible $100-600. If I need a lens, I think I would only want one like the macro..

Your comments will be appreciated!..

Comments (22)

I'm a beginner who used to work with a manual Pentax K1000 from the70's. My favorite lens to use was the macro. I wasn't too fond of theothers. I am interested in buying a DSLR and would like to knowwhich digital lenses out on the market closely resemble the macro?.

In addition to that, I am looking for suggestions on which camerawould best suit my needs. I might not need a DSLR, but I'd like tobe aware of as many options as possible. If it's not a DSLR, it hasto take good quality NON-FLASH photos in low light settings (inapartments, CLUBS, at concerts, in the evening, etc), withoutblurring motion (image stabilization). I'm not a flash fan at all.I prefer images to look as true to life as possible. If it has to bean SLR, I would prefer one that can be toted without it being obviousyou have an expensive camera with you. Besides, my hands are small.I don't want it to be much of a burden to carry.

I was told I should go for an SLR for the kinds ofphotos I wish to capture. I would like it to be easy to use...nottoo advanced (learning the camera lingo will come if I wish to learnmore about cameras after playing around with beginners photographyfor a while) and as inexpensive as possible $100-600. If I need alens, I think I would only want one like the macro..

Your comments will be appreciated!.

Low cost + on-board image stabilisation + very good low-light performance = Pentax K100D.

Best wishesMike..

Comment #1

Amyrichter wrote:.

I'm a beginner who used to work with a manual Pentax K1000 from the70's. My favorite lens to use was the macro. I wasn't too fond of theothers. I am interested in buying a DSLR and would like to knowwhich digital lenses out on the market closely resemble the macro?.

Slightly vague. There are macros meant for extreme close-ups (Canon MP-5E is a fairly extreme example macro lens with integral bellows, up to 5:1 lifesizse), and longer macros intended for a longer working distance (as might be useful for insects that would otherwise be likely to fly away, for instance)..

In addition to that, I am looking for suggestions on which camerawould best suit my needs. I might not need a DSLR, but I'd like tobe aware of as many options as possible. If it's not a DSLR, it hasto take good quality NON-FLASH photos in low light settings (inapartments, CLUBS, at concerts, in the evening, etc), without.

Fast lens, high ISO. Fuji F-series (which, apparently, is getting hard to find these days) is a common recommendation among compact cameras for high-ISO performance, as most other compacts have been designed with an eye towards larger zooms or more MP rather than decently usable high-ISO values..

Blurring motion (image stabilization). I'm not a flash fan at all..

Image stabilization is not going to do anything about the moving musicians or audience. Short shutter speeds are required, since flash + shutter dragging isn't an option. The stabilization will help with stills or with more-stationary portraits, but clubs and rock concerts tend to feature more-mobile people, I'd suspect..

I prefer images to look as true to life as possible. If it has to bean SLR, I would prefer one that can be toted without it being obviousyou have an expensive camera with you. Besides, my hands are small.I don't want it to be much of a burden to carry. It doesn't have tobe a Pentax. I was told I should go for an SLR for the kinds of.

Pentax actually isn't a bad option if you want small, as they do offer a large number of very small single-focal-length lenses. Their DSLRs also offer some compatibility with previous lenses see.

Http://www.pentaximaging.com/...oducts/cameras/lenses/compatability_chart.jsp.

The FOV used on a Pentax DSLR is narrower than on a Pentax film SLR by a factor of 1.5 along each linear dimension. Consequence of sensor being that much smaller than 36x24mm film frames..

For small body + small varifocals, Olympus E-410 is an option, as might be the Nikon D40. E-510 is a bit nicer than the E-410 in terms of built-in IS for those less frantic scenes, but at the cost of some more $ and somewhat higher weight/size..

Photos I wish to capture. I would like it to be easy to use...nottoo advanced (learning the camera lingo will come if I wish to learnmore about cameras after playing around with beginners photographyfor a while) and as inexpensive as possible $100-600. If I need alens, I think I would only want one like the macro..

You've used an SLR; the DSLR is going to be quite similar. Manual focusing is likely to be more difficult (smaller sensor, smaller light path, usually designed for AF-centric use no focusing aids in default screen, usually designed for brightness rather than snap), white balance and sensitivity can get selected per image rather than per roll, and you can do a fair bit in post-processing without chemicals, if you choose. Some people have developed procedures to emulate various film looks in their digital workflows, I believe...

Comment #2

I was going to recommend either a Canon 300d or a Nikon D50 with the respective 50mm 1.8 lens. You could get either kit for less than $400. That's still not exactly disposable, but it's a lot less worrisome than someone spilling beer on your $1500 telephoto lens. I forgot about the K100 - that's a really nice one too, although I don't think there's an equivalent to the cheap-but-respectable 50mm 1.8s that C & N have..

The Fuji F30 and F31 would also be pretty good, although as Leejay said they're hard to find now..

With any of these solutions, you'll have to get pretty close to the stage. Your other option is to spend more on a fast telephoto lens and camp out somewhere in the back, where you can protect your gear a little better...

Comment #3

Pentax K100D were excellent recommendations, especially with $100 rebate. Another really outstanding camera for this would be a used Canon 20D or clearanced 30D...

Comment #4

Amyrichter wrote:.

I'm not a flash fan at all.I prefer images to look as true to life as possible..

That's because you don't know how to use one. I'm sure you've seen hundreds of photos that were taken with flash and you don't even realize it...

Comment #5

I was going to recommend either a Canon 300d or a Nikon D50 with therespective 50mm 1.8 lens. You could get either kit for less than$400. That's still not exactly disposable, but it's a lot lessworrisome than someone spilling beer on your $1500 telephoto lens. Iforgot about the K100 - that's a really nice one too, although Idon't think there's an equivalent to the cheap-but-respectable 50mm1.8s that C & N have..

It is correct that the Pentax 50mm f/1.4 is quite expensive (much more so than the Canon / Nikon equivalents). However older manual focus lenses like the excellent 50mm SMC-M f/1.7 will work fine (I got one on ebay for 28). At a rock concert manual focus should be OK as the performers will spend significant amounts of time in one spot..

Best wishesMike..

Comment #6

Amyrichter wrote:.

I'm a beginner who used to work with a manual Pentax K1000 from the70's. My favorite lens to use was the macro. I wasn't too fond of theothers. I am interested in buying a DSLR and would like to knowwhich digital lenses out on the market closely resemble the macro?.

In addition to that, I am looking for suggestions on which camerawould best suit my needs. I might not need a DSLR, but I'd like tobe aware of as many options as possible. If it's not a DSLR, it hasto take good quality NON-FLASH photos in low light settings (inapartments, CLUBS, at concerts, in the evening, etc), withoutblurring motion (image stabilization). I'm not a flash fan at all.I prefer images to look as true to life as possible. If it has to bean SLR, I would prefer one that can be toted without it being obviousyou have an expensive camera with you. Besides, my hands are small.I don't want it to be much of a burden to carry.

I was told I should go for an SLR for the kinds ofphotos I wish to capture. I would like it to be easy to use...nottoo advanced (learning the camera lingo will come if I wish to learnmore about cameras after playing around with beginners photographyfor a while) and as inexpensive as possible $100-600. If I need alens, I think I would only want one like the macro..

Your comments will be appreciated!.

Hi.

Personally I think you should considera few Fuji compacts.

Pentax 6 mp dslrs Of these if new or second hand a K100d or K100d super...second hand something like a IST*D or Ist*DS is ok....not stabilised thoughNikon 6mp later model camerasCanon 20d/30d...these will be at the top or over your budget though..

I use Pentax and can reccomend the K100d. It will be a little cheaper than the K100d super. The stabilisation is great (true it does not help with movement of the subject but helps so the background is blur free...ie no blur on blur) ...subject movement can help a photo as well...ie drummer pics always look better to me if thethe sticks are blurred or the guitarists hand is blurred..

The Kit lens will do until you can get something better.....you can always get a cheap manual focus prime (28mm 2.8 or even f2 or a 50 1.4mf or 1.7/1.8 for very little)..

Whatever you get I would reccomend a couple of fast zooms and a small prime or 2....there are some very nice lenses available..

As always try as many cameras as you can, though you may have to consider second hand which will make it a little more difficult..

One thing though often cameras are forbidden and most often in my experience when they are allowed it's point and shoot only ....dslrs (and slrs) are often only permitted with a photo pass..

Posted againHeathen Ritual K100d 17-35 Tamron 2.8-4.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Neil.

Link back to flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/26884588@N00/..

Comment #7

Thanks! I was looking at that one a couple of weeks ago. Does the Image Stabilization work without a flash? I don't know much about it, but would like to learn...

Comment #8

Image stabilization won't help one darn bit for what you're wanting to do..

Amyrichter wrote:.

Thanks! I was looking at that one a couple of weeks ago. Does theImage Stabilization work without a flash? I don't know much aboutit, but would like to learn..

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Comment #9

Well, no danger being close to the stage...I will have passes for the bigger shows. Most of the shows I'll go to will be small scale shows where the audience usually stands still and at least four feet from the stage. I prefer the smaller ones. What zoom would you recommend for facial close-ups taken close to the stage?.

Thanks for the information. < 400 definitely sounds like a good deal..

Does the 50mm 1.8 lens have a larger image circle like the manual macro did or is it smaller as I hear most digital camera lens image circles are? I'm guessing by it's name that the former is the case.....

Comment #10

Thank you! You've given me the most information..

As for the lens, here is what it says on it:Albinar ADCG 28mm 1:28 macro focus 85155721 52 mm.

Do the cameras (Olympus E-410, Nikon D40, Pentax, Fuji F-series) give you an option menu so you can select your shutter speed? If so, do the shutter speeds get slow enough for concert photography?.

You actually told me exactly what I wanted to know about Image Stabilization. Seeing a flash on every camera with Image Stabilization made me wonder...

Comment #11

You're right, I don't know how to use one.  ..

Comment #12

Even for those without dedicated 'scene' modes PASM (program, aperture-priority, shutter-priority, full manual exposure) typically with spot / center-weighted / ESP metering..

You shouldn't need to use any menus for adjusting shutter speed. They all pretty much come with at least one command dial, often two, with button + dial operation for functions that you may need to use often enough to not wander through menus. A dedicated 'ISO' button and a dedicated 'exposure compensation' button are fairly common, for instance between those, you get quick access to Tv/Av/ISO..

Strictly speaking, shutter speeds can often be set to pretty long intervals, but you may not want to both because your subjects will often be moving, and because noise tends to increase with long exposures. The former might make for a fairly arty picture, if you can find a way to keep the camera stable, 'tho. For getting even close to stop-motion, you'd probably want high ISO..

White balance is another candidate for a dedicated button. Shooting RAW makes inaccurate WB at least potentially fixable afterwards, 'tho. And for a rock concert or club, I'd expect the WB to be pretty tricky.....

Comment #13

What kind of Pentax do you use now? Everyone seems to favor Pentax. Thanks for your help. I'll make some notes of it.....

Comment #14

Amyrichter wrote:.

What kind of Pentax do you use now? Everyone seems to favor Pentax.Thanks for your help. I'll make some notes of it....

Hi.

The camera I use most of the time is a K100d (not super) I also still have my Ist*D.

But the shake reduction and larger screen and better jpegs make me take the K100d over the Ist*d almost all the time. I have shot several hundred bands over the last few years in everything from heavy metal festivals through to Country music shows and even the odd jazz band. Not once have I ever wished for another camera while shooting and the limitations are all mine down to me..

Despite this my pentaxes have saved me at least hundreds in admission charges and got me backstage or even onstage with Australias best acts.....its been a lot of fun. I have cut back recently on doing live music photos but will probably start again soon..

If you want to see more samples from either of my cameras I will see if I have what you want....i shoot jpeg and hate post processing..

Neil..

Comment #15

Yes. Sorry...I sent that one before I'd read some of the other posts. Still sounds good, though....

Thanks.....

Comment #16

Sure! That would be great! Do you use a tripod or have you just gotten yourself used to standing still over the years?..

Comment #17

IS definitely is a great thing to have in the right instances..

Amyrichter wrote:.

Yes. Sorry...I sent that one before I'd read some of the otherposts. Still sounds good, though....

Thanks....

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Comment #18

Amyrichter wrote:.

Sure! That would be great! Do you use a tripod or have you justgotten yourself used to standing still over the years?.

Hi.

No tripod....in fact the only time I have ever seen anyone use a trpod in a gig was the last one I went to....and he pretty much used it for a few minutes and ditched it..

Even though the lighting can be very low overall, the performers are often well lit...sometimes too much so. Any camera with usable 800 will do in a pinch....just may have to pass on some shots at shows with dimmer lighting..

Cameras are good enough now days to allow you to use f4 or sometimes even 5.6 at hand holdable speeds easily if you can use iso 1600 or 3200 ....its not like you will always (or even often) be shooting at slower than 1/20....and why the New Nikon D3 with usable 12800 will be so good....a "good" iso 800 camera might be at (say) 1/15 at f 2.8 at iso 800....a camera with max "good" 1600 and your out to 1/30, by the time you get to the D3s 12800 you have the luxury of being able to use combinations like f5.6 at 1/60 in the same light..

This shot of Kirsty lee Akerswith my K100d is at Iso 3200 1/45...there is just a little movement of her hand...not enough for my liking..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Antishake DOES help a LITTLE in this environment though....as I said before, it means no background blur due to camera shake and if the subject is stationary at the microphone you will be able to get more keeper shots with slightly slower speeds....will vary from person to person and more importantly from act to act...most bands move way to fast to matter...but some shoe gazers it will help with. Most of the time though you are at speeds that it does not matter...just occasionally it will help..

From 2005 this is Transcending Mortality with my Pentax Ist*D iso 3200 1/30 f 3.5.

The Ist*D does not have antishake and is a little noisier )same sensor but was pentaxes first dslr)...was a pretty ordinary lens...would love to do this now with the K100d and Tamron 17-35..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

As I said I do not use a tripod at gigs because I do not need one due to speeds mostly being ok and having antishake when they DO get low....but it is simply not practical most of the time...you will not be popular with the punters and there is a good chance your camera will go flying..

This is Evermore from september 2006...taken with the IST*D...and this was taken at their sound check...as much as I would have liked to take during the gig my chance was zero...I had to get there early just to get a spot at the front and then I was stuck there and not able to move..

Iso 1600 1/10 so pretty much the limit without stabilisation (in a real world sense)..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Neil.

Link back to flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/26884588@N00/..

Comment #19

Wow! Nice! It looks like I can't get the K100D. It is available through Amazon. The K100D Super is more widely available. Not sure what the difference is.....

Comment #20

Amyrichter wrote:.

Wow! Nice! It looks like I can't get the K100D. It is availablethrough Amazon. The K100D Super is more widely available. Not surewhat the difference is....

Hi.

Thanks.

K100d super is the same camera as the K100d just updated to include sdm (?) lenses and a dust buster...think thats about it..

The K100d may or may not be for you...you really should get a hold of as many cameras as you can..

Do NOT buy it if you want a buffer to take a large sequence of shots quickly, or if it's too loud after hearing the shutter (not THAT loud but a problem for some).

Auto white balance is not the best (most cameras are poor in this regard in some way...you just need to set for the conditions....takes 2 second)s..

Long new tele lenses are few and expensive (nice old ones though)..

Auto focus can be slower than others...but is ok and fairly accurate..

Just to make it so feature rich at such a inexpensive price it has to have some downsides...all cameras do though..

Go play with one...you will know if you like it..

Oh and no matter what camera you get be prepared for a lot of poor pics amongst the good ones...more so until you get some better lenses (which will cost money)..

Neil..

Comment #21

Hi! Looks like I was very busy on the day of my last reply. Thanks for your ISO and shutter speed tips! Very helpful! I will definitely keep those in mind while photographing. Something deep inside of me would still like the Pentax K100D, and I am not interested in shooting several photos at once. With the holidays out of the way, the time has come....

Thanks again!..

Comment #22

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