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Raynox 150 (4 images)
Hi,.

I have just taken my first pictures with a Raynox 150 fitted to my FZ50.

I am not too happy with the results and I thought you guys might be tell me where I have gone wrong..

The original pictures ended up with a 'halo' around them and it took substantial cropping to improve them..

I have attached the before & after pictures below for you to scrutinise..

I would like you to give me your honest opinions (warts and all) with a view to improving my photo skills..

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I look forward to your replies.

TG..

Comments (11)

I suggest that you take this issue to the Panasonic forum. You will probably get a pretty quick answer there..

-Bill.

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Comment #1

Your pictures are nice. I'm not sure what you're upset about. You extented the length of your lens and you see it in your images. That is to be expected..

To exaggerate the effect take a picture through a paper towel tube. You will see the sides of the tube with a little bit of image in the middle. On your Raynox you have a little bit of tube and a lot of image..

Is there any thing else to this?.

REd..

Comment #2

Tee Gee wrote:.

The original pictures ended up with a 'halo' around them and it tooksubstantial cropping to improve them..

I've not tried that particular combination. But normally if you attach a telephoto attachment to the front of the lens, it will give these kind of results when you zoom out to the wideangle end of the range. Zoom in to the longer (telephoto) range and all should be well..

Even if the attachment worked at the "wide-angle" range, the results would probably not be as good as the camera's own lens simply zoomed in..

The end result is, you cannot expect to keep the converter attached permanently, it will be necessary to remove it to use all of the zoom range of the camera.Hope this helps,Peter..

Comment #3

The proper term for your problem is "vignetting"..

Often, adding a conversion lens to the front of a lens causes this problem, especially at wide FLs. Zoom out..

I also note that you used f4 on both shots. That resulted in limited DOF. You should use a smaller aperture. This will require a longer exposure time and thus a tripod..

Charlie DavisNikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D300HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..

Comment #4

Hi, Tee Gee, I am a beginner too, and own FZ50 and Raynox 150 for one year, will share the beginners view of FZ50- Raynox 150 flower shotsWish having helpful.

Basic setDial mode to M; aperture F 8 to F 11 and shutter speed to 160-300Focus switch; AF Macro.

Manual set: WB, Auto; meter mode, Spot; AF mode, one area H; pic adjust, con. Std, sharp. std, sat. std, noise lowExternal Flash or built-in flash with diffuser, I prefer built in flash.

Viewfinder:l -Select distance : backward and forward the camera to subjectdistance between of 10 to 25 cm within the range of redframe warning.l -zoom for proper framel -adjust built in flash light level to a proper Histograml -point spot meter to bright area, half press shutter button,move back, take pic.

Here are a few of the sorted flower pic , I am unhappy by the dark back ground. I cant solved it, any suggest of brighten background will be appreciated.

Retmenp1;.

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P2:.

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P3;.

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P4;.

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P5;.

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P6;.

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Comment #5

Retmen wrote:.

Here are a few of the sorted flower pic , I am unhappy by the darkback ground. I cant solved it, any suggest of brighten backgroundwill be appreciated.

Your pictures look good, successful I would say..

Regarding the dark background: that is related to the use of flash. The brightness of the flash reduces rapidly with distance..

The obvious suggestion for static subjects is use a tripod, slow shutter speed and no flash. I know that outdoors plants tend to move in the breeze, so this may not be the answer..

Other solutions would involve changing the flash set-up. Perhaps use a second flash on low-power, triggered as an optical slave, for the purpose of illuminating the background. Not sure I like that idea very much..

Another idea is to avoid direct flash. Use an external flash bounced from a large white diffuser. When flash is bounced like this, the fall-off with distance is less severe, as well as the lighting being more pleasant.Hope this helps,Peter..

Comment #6

Peter wrote.

Other solutions would involve changing the flash set-up. Perhaps usea second flash on low-power, triggered as an optical slave, for thepurpose of illuminating the background. Not sure I like that ideavery much..

Thx very much, Peter, I like the suggestion of second slave flash for brighten the dark background. Once I set up built in flash and 2nd slave flash with a Demb flip it bounce for the FZ50-Raynox macro work I will post here againRetmen..

Comment #7

Could I just say here that I am not sure why you want to get rid of the dark background. It sets off the intensity of the flowers very nicely. In a lighter background with a lot of detail that will be lost. A lot of folks work hard to intentionally get that dark background..

-Bill.

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Comment #8

Bill, I agree dark background contrast to subject. Some of my macro flower and bug pictures are very dark background. If I can put a small amount of light on the background, which will look bit nature, thx advice.Retmen..

Comment #9

You've managed to get in a no-mans land with regard to the one & only bum wrap of the Raynoxes... They can't be zoomed to the widest zoom on physically wide diameter lenses that are significantly larger then they are... If you had something larger like a same +4 diopter Canon 250D that comes in 55 & 58mm thread-mounts, there would've been no vignette even at full wide...

My suggestion would be try the same shot on the same size subject without the Raynox... You'll probably need to set the zoom as wide or wider & get practically right on top of it because unlike with macro adapters attached that have fixed working distances no matter what the zoom is set to, when there is no macro adapter used, the naked lens requires different working distances that changes according to the zoom....

At full widem the Fz30/50 can be focused from 1 or 2 cm away & as the zoom is tightened, the distance needs to be further till @ full zoom you need somewhere around 2 meters between the lens & subject... I do believe you'll find the right combo with a little trial & error....

Don't give up on the Raynox though... It'll work just fine with a smaller subject you can tighten up the zoom for till there's no vignette.....

And I agree with a previous reply that you'll find no shortage of raynox 150 & 250 w/Fz30/50 shooters on the Pany forum that could help much better than I or anyone else here.... The Raynoxes are probably the most popular choices with most Pany Fz shooters regardless of which Fz... The Pany forum is filthy with em....

The Amateur Formerly Known as 'UZ'pShoot'ERS' 'Happy Shootin' Comments, Critique, Ridicule, Limericks, Jokes, Hi-jackings, EnthUZIastically, Encouraged... I Insist!.

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* /rrawzz *..

Comment #10

Thanks to you all for your replies..

Please accept my apologies for not getting back sooner but I have been having problems accessing the site..

Found it was a cache problem i.e. my bookmark was corrupted I found I could access the site but not login or reply..

As you can see I am up and running again..

Thanks for the complements re my first attempts, nice to know they were not too bad for a first timer..

Will take all your advice on board..

Then I guess it is a case of getting a some practice in,noting what works best for me, and the situation I am photographing..

Once again......thanks.

TG..

Comment #11

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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