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photo samples from new D80
Okay, here is the results from my third day playing with my new Nikon D80. Since I know all the experts will want to know, I had it set on shutter priority at 1000-1250 which put the aperture at around 5.68-ish depending on the shot. I had the white balance set for cloudy and the AF set to continuous. For the stationary subject pictures the shutter speed was set at 800. I used the kit VR lens zoomed all the way to it's max of 200 for the action shots. Just as a reference, those whippets are running at approximately 37 mph..

From my very novice eye with my first D SLR...I think I could improve on the clarity of the action shots with a stronger zoom so I wouldn't have to sit practically in the way of the oncoming dogs and be much further back so I wouldn't have to pan so fast. Also I think getting a tripod will help..

Critiques? Suggestions?.

Http://www.kodakgallery.com/...wv0d&Ux=0&UV=562508917514_942854303603.

Thanks,Julie..

Comments (8)

I originally set the ISO to 400, but found I needed it higher to get the shutter speed and aperture I wanted...so I reset it to 620. (I think it was 620, it was definitely 600-something, and my battery is now dead so I can't look and see what it's set to) LOL..

Comment #1

You've done a very good job. Choosing a fast shutter speed, middling aperture to get some depth of field, and upping the ISO to get the shutter speed / f-stop you want, is the right way to do it and you obviously know what you are doing. The best shots (IMO) are the ones where the dogs are running more or less towards you and you can see their faces... scary!.

The collection will have more impact if you reduce it to about half it's size by weeding out some duds (blurred shots, ones with part of the dog cut off, etc.). It may sound too simple to be worth saying but if you only show people your best shots they will be more impressed..

Best wishesMike..

Comment #2

Julie,.

You have done a pretty good job for a first attempt..

I cannot read the exif information on each photo from the Kodak site so I do not know shutter speeds etc. Some comments:.

If you had a longer zoom you might need a yet higher shutter speed. Assuming these shots are not heavily cropped you are fine with this focal length..

I appreciate that with a longer lens you might be able to photograph from the end of the straight and avoid panning and perhaps have less need for a higher shutter speed but do not rush to buy another lens. Work with what you have got. You can afford to crop a little which will give you much the same outcome as a 300mm lens.

Ideally you should increase shutter speed a little. I would suggest you can afford to use -0.3 EV Exposure Compensation which in shutter priority will give you one third of a stop more shutter speed. That may not be enough but it would certainly help..

In a perfect world you would shoot these shots using a 70-200 f/2.8 VR which would give you up to an extra two stops of speed at 200mm. If you combined that with a 1.4x teleconvertor you would have a very flexible package (So just don't eat for 6 months then you will be able to afford them!)..

You will have few problems with the D80 at high ISO provided you get the exposure right. There is certainly no need to worry about 800-1000 ISO. I use 1600 ISO all the time. Give 1600 ISO a try as a test. It may be the small IQ trade off is worth it in terms of extra shutter speed..

If you are not using it you may want to consider ISO Auto setting the max at 1600 and the minimum at 200..

Yes you would benefit from a tripod or monopod. Which you go for will depend on your shooting conditions. Tripods are potentaily lethal in heavily trafficked area. They cost more and weigh more but plainly are more stable..

You may be best off with a monopod AND head:.

Http://www.nikonians.org/monopods/what_monopod_3.html.

Http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo5.php3.

Avoid a really flimsy one..

Hope that helps..

P.S. The link you have posted appears to allow me to delete your photos. Be careful not to lose them at the hands of some malicious person. Yoiu need a dedicated photo hosting site..

Edit: Mike's post has appeared since I started typing mine. I normally agree with what he says but there is one comment this time where I do not. I would stick with a wide aperture and subject isolation. The ideal would be something more like f/2.8. The 55-200 is pretty sharp at f/5.6 200mm. It is VERY sharp at 55mm f/4 but the edges are a little soft until about f/8.

Chris Elliott.

*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #3

Mike703 wrote:.

The collection will have more impact if you reduce it to about halfits size by weeding out some duds (blurred shots, ones with part ofthe dog cut off, etc.). It may sound too simple to be worth sayingbut if you only show people your best shots they will be moreimpressed..

I understand and I completely agree. The reason I put so many pictures in the gallery of dog events is that the owners of all of these dogs get a huge kick out of seeing pictures of their dogs running, so I do it for them. The owners aren't photographers and are thrilled to see their dogs, even the ones that turned out a little blurry...

Comment #4

Chris Elliott wrote:.

I cannot read the exif information on each photo from the Kodak siteso I do not know shutter speeds etc..

I put that info in my previous post. Not the exact info for each shot....but the conditions didn't change at all in the couple of hours I was shooting so the settings didn't change much..

If you had a longer zoom you might need a yet higher shutter speed.Assuming these shots are not heavily cropped you are fine with thisfocal length..

Actually the majority of the actions shots are extremely heavily cropped, and I was using the max zoom every one of them. The problem I was having was that I couldn't sit close enough to the track to get the subjects as large as I wanted. As it was when the dogs rounded the corner, came at me, then passed directly in front of me I was only about 15 away from them, which is not only dangerously close, but can also be distracting to some of the dogs. If you look closely you can actually see a couple of shots where the dogs are looking directly at me instead of the lure..

I appreciate that with a longer lens you might be able to photographfrom the end of the straight and avoid panning and perhaps have lessneed for a higher shutter speed but do not rush to buy another lens.Work with what you have got. You can afford to crop a little whichwill give you much the same outcome as a 300mm lens.

That's exactly what I will do, work with what I have for quite a while. I really want to learn about and get as proficient as possible with my current equipment before I start to accessorize. I think the only things I am going to get soon are a tripod, an extra battery, and my new SD card is on it's way already..

Ideally you should increase shutter speed a little. I would suggestyou can afford to use -0.3 EV Exposure Compensation which in shutterpriority will give you one third of a stop more shutter speed. Thatmay not be enough but it would certainly help..

I will have to sit down with my camera and figure out what you are talking about there as it sounds very helpful..

You will have few problems with the D80 at high ISO provided you getthe exposure right. There is certainly no need to worry about800-1000 ISO. I use 1600 ISO all the time. Give 1600 ISO a try as atest. It may be the small IQ trade off is worth it in terms of extrashutter speed..

I will do that. I didn't play around with bumping the ISO up more than 600-ish because I was afraid of loosing quality. I will never know unless I play around with it though..

If you are not using it you may want to consider ISO Auto setting themax at 1600 and the minimum at 200..

Another great idea and something to try next time out..

P.S. The link you have posted appears to allow me to delete yourphotos. Be careful not to lose them at the hands of some maliciousperson. Yoiu need a dedicated photo hosting site..

I am having issues with that, somebody mentioned that before. I definitely need to look into that..

Edit: Mike's post has appeared since I started typing mine. Inormally agree with what he says but there is one comment this timewhere I do not. I would stick with a wide aperture and subjectisolation. The ideal would be something more like f/2.8. The 55-200is pretty sharp at f/5.6 200mm. It is VERY sharp at 55mm f/4 but theedges are a little soft until about f/8.

I was nervous going with too large an aperture with the number of dogs in the race and their different distances from the camera. Also, since I cropped heavily being able to isolate just one dog going at that speed when I am sitting that close...well...let's just say that I don't think I will ever be THAT good! LOL.

Thanks for all the info....I have lots of things to play with and try out next time...

Comment #5

Julie,.

1. If you have not found it yet:.

Http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html.

2. Many on line galleries allow the display of the exif information in each photo if you have a program such as Opanda (free download)..

3. If you are already cropping heavily then consider a Nikon 70-300 VR somewhere down the line. That is reasonably affordable:.

Http://www.bythom.com/70300VRlens.htm.

(I have linked to Thom Hogan's review. You will find lots of useful info on his site).

But as Thom says the lens is soft at 300mm. You might be better off with a Sigma 100-300mm f/4 (but no VR):.

Http://www.photozone.de/...kon%20Lens%20Tests/369-sigma-af-100-300mm-f4-nikon.

4. I can understand where you are coming from posting even the mediocre photos but what people don't know cannot hurt them. Alternatively with most on line sites you can post galleries and sub folders in those galleries and just give them titles like "The Best" and "The Rest"..

5. P.54 in the manual deals with exposure compensation. Try -0.3 and maybe even -0.7. But first port of call is to put up ISO. I do not know what shutter speeds you were using - 1/500th? 1/100th? but if you use 1/1000th and -0.3 EV you will get a shutter speed of 1/1350 odd at f/5.6 in exchange for a very slightly darker picture. (You can get exactly the same effect by using S mode and dialing say 1/1350th even though the cam is telling you that you arre correctly exposed at 1/1000th f/5.6.



Chris Elliott.

*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #6

Chris Elliott wrote:.

5. P.54 in the manual deals with exposure compensation. Try -0.3 andmaybe even -0.7. But first port of call is to put up ISO. I do notknow what shutter speeds you were using - 1/500th? 1/100th? but ifyou use 1/1000th and -0.3 EV you will get a shutter speed of 1/1350odd at f/5.6 in exchange for a very slightly darker picture. (You canget exactly the same effect by using S mode and dialing say 1/1350theven though the cam is telling you that you arre correctly exposedat 1/1000th f/5.6.



All of the action shots were taken at shutter speeds of either 1000 or 1250, and the aperture was between 5.6 and 8-ish. I did get the "Lo" reading you are talking about, but had no idea what that meant. When I saw it I tried to tweak things enough to make it go away and give me the f-stop reading...

Comment #7

Bayberry wrote:.

All of the action shots were taken at shutter speeds of either 1000or 1250, and the aperture was between 5.6 and 8-ish. I did get the"Lo" reading you are talking about, but had no idea what that meant.When I saw it I tried to tweak things enough to make it go away andgive me the f-stop reading..

Just try it some time. The little analogue display will tell you exactly how much you are underexposed in one third of a stop "notches"..

You cannot use it with ISO auto because it will bump up ISO instead of letting you underexpose..

Chris Elliott.

*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #8

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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