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night time soccer games
I have a canon 1d mark III, using a 300 2.8 lens. The games start at 5:00 pm. No problm shooting them at that time, but at aroung 7:00 pm when they turn on the outside lights on the field the problems startI can't get enough decent shots, most are blurry or distorted...HELP.

Thanks..

Comments (14)

Umm.. are you really a beginner? using gear that most of us non-pros cannot afford?.

Get a good book on photography. "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson is a good start.. "Photography" by John Hedgecoe is a good second read...

The local library is a good place to start, and they have books specifically on sports shooting.. among other things...

Now, here's a hint.. ISO3200 or 6400, f/2.8, shutter speed at least 1/200 and burst mode....

S.**My XT IS Full Frame APS-C/FF of course!*****So is my 5D 35mm/FF**..

Comment #1

ScottyNV wrote:.

Umm.. are you really a beginner? using gear that most of us non-proscannot afford?.

Get a good book on photography. "Understanding Exposure" by BryanPeterson is a good start.. "Photography" by John Hedgecoe is a goodsecond read...

The local library is a good place to start, and they have booksspecifically on sports shooting.. among other things...

Now, here's a hint.. ISO3200 or 6400, f/2.8, shutter speed at least1/200 and burst mode....

Thanks for the info.

**My XT IS Full Frame APS-C/FF of course!*****So is my 5D 35mm/FF**..

Comment #2

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

I have a canon 1d mark III, using a 300 2.8 lens. The games start at5:00 pm. No problm shooting them at that time, but at aroung 7:00 pmwhen they turn on the outside lights on the field the problemsstartI can't get enough decent shots, most are blurry ordistorted...HELP.

Thanks.

Your shutter speed is too slow. Are you hand holding the camera or shooting of a tripod or monopod? With the weight of that gear you are using you will definitely need at least a monopod for support once it gets darker. You wil also need to keep your shutter speed around 1/300th of a second or faster to get sharp photos. You have several thousand dollars of pro level gear so it should not be a problem at all with your gear. The blurred photos are due to technique. High ISO, keep your shutter speed up and support you camera will be the keys to getting good images, along with experience.



JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..

Comment #3

John Glover wrote:.

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

I have a canon 1d mark III, using a 300 2.8 lens. The games start at5:00 pm. No problm shooting them at that time, but at aroung 7:00 pmwhen they turn on the outside lights on the field the problemsstartI can't get enough decent shots, most are blurry ordistorted...HELP.

Thanks.

Your shutter speed is too slow. Are you hand holding the camera orshooting of a tripod or monopod? With the weight of that gear youare using you will definitely need at least a monopod for supportonce it gets darker. You wil also need to keep your shutter speedaround 1/300th of a second or faster to get sharp photos. You haveseveral thousand dollars of pro level gear so it should not be aproblem at all with your gear. The blurred photos are due totechnique. High ISO, keep your shutter speed up and support youcamera will be the keys to getting good images, along withexperience.



JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..

Comment #4

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

John Glover wrote:.

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

I have a canon 1d mark III, using a 300 2.8 lens. The games start at5:00 pm. No problm shooting them at that time, but at aroung 7:00 pmwhen they turn on the outside lights on the field the problemsstartI can't get enough decent shots, most are blurry ordistorted...HELP.

Thanks.

Your shutter speed is too slow. Are you hand holding the camera orshooting of a tripod or monopod? With the weight of that gear youare using you will definitely need at least a monopod for supportonce it gets darker. You wil also need to keep your shutter speedaround 1/300th of a second or faster to get sharp photos. You haveseveral thousand dollars of pro level gear so it should not be aproblem at all with your gear. The blurred photos are due totechnique. High ISO, keep your shutter speed up and support youcamera will be the keys to getting good images, along withexperience.



John.

Thank You John, you gave me something to work with. I do use a monopod, and the iso is set at 3200, should I be using a flash?..

Comment #5

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

Thank You John, you gave me something to work with. I do use a monopod, and the iso is set at 3200, should I be using a flash?.

Your biggest problem when the sun goes down will be subject movement. You'll need a fairly high shutter speed to stop the motion, usually about 1/320th or so or faster to stop the motion of the players to get sharp images. Flash will help stop this movement and get a sharp picture but flash range will be a real consideration. It will take a pretty powerful flash unless you are quite close to the action..

The monopod is a good idea. Even though it seems like you *can* handhold a 300/2.8, in low light you will not be able to do it effectively, especially for action shots. You might also consider shooting in RAW and post processing your images. Shooting in RAW will you give you a bit more leeway to underexposure your shots (and hence get a faster shutter speed) but still be able to recover the images in your post processing..

JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..

Comment #6

John Glover wrote:.

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

Thank You John, you gave me something to work with. I do use a monopod, and the iso is set at 3200, should I be using a flash?.

Your biggest problem when the sun goes down will be subject movement.You'll need a fairly high shutter speed to stop the motion, usuallyabout 1/320th or so or faster to stop the motion of the players toget sharp images. Flash will help stop this movement and get a sharppicture but flash range will be a real consideration. It will take apretty powerful flash unless you are quite close to the action..

The monopod is a good idea. Even though it seems like you *can*handhold a 300/2.8, in low light you will not be able to do iteffectively, especially for action shots. You might also considershooting in RAW and post processing your images. Shooting in RAWwill you give you a bit more leeway to underexposure your shots (andhence get a faster shutter speed) but still be able to recover theimages in your post processing..

Thanks again John, you are most helpful, I will try shooting in RAW,.

You made my day..

Comment #7

You dont't say if your lens has IS or not..

It seems you might need to use fixed manual settings for the artificial lighting and use a shutter speed of say 1/500 to get your shots.if your lens has IS you might get away with a bit less..

The ISO value already recommended sounds reasonable and if you shoot RAW it should be no big deal to get proper results...

Comment #8

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

Thanks again John, you are most helpful, I will try shooting in RAW,.

You made my day.

You're welcome Liz, heck, just shoot away at anything at night to practice....all you are gonna loose is a little time invested in processing your images! .

JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..

Comment #9

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

Thank You John, you gave me something to work with. I do use amonopod, and the iso is set at 3200, should I be using a flash?.

I might quibble with using a monopod, under certain conditions namely, that you are not restricting your choice of subject to just one or two players, or to a particular area of the field. A downside of using a monopod is that it can slow down your aiming, and if you're trying to follow action, you may have to re-acquire subjects very quickly. If you're just looking to take a smaller number of shots or are tracking some particular player and don't really care that a kick just sent the ball well downfield, then this matters less to you..

I experimented for a while with a monopod, shooting evening softball, solo, with the purpose of photographing my co-workers (up to 10 subjects when on defense, widely spread out). My eventual conclusion was that camera shake, even at the longer end of what I was using (E-1 + 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 ~400mm equiv at long end) was the least of my problems, and that it was irrelevant if I wasn't fast enough at retargeting..

It may not necessarily be the case for you; you may have fewer subjects (comparable number if you're shooting both teams), and the ball may be moving somewhat more predictably, since many kicks will be attempts to pass the ball to another player or shots on goal rather than attempting to boot the ball as far from anybody else as possible. Still, you may want to experiment..

If you want both fast target acquisition but also some stability, you may want to look into something like a Bushhawk essentially, a shoulder stock for a camera. Might be worth looking into...

Comment #10

Leejay Wu wrote:.

Allphotosbyliz wrote:.

If you want both fast target acquisition but also some stability, youmay want to look into something like a Bushhawk essentially, ashoulder stock for a camera. Might be worth looking into..

Thank you very much, I will look into a Bushhawk. You have been helpful..

Comment #11

LeRentier wrote:.

You dont't say if your lens has IS or not.it seems you might need to use fixed manual settings for theartificial lighting and use a shutter speed of say 1/500 to get yourshots.if your lens has IS you might get away with a bit less.the ISO value already recommended sounds reasonable and if you shootRAW it should be no big deal to get proper results..

I Do have IS, and am experimenting tonight with all the advice, I am very grateful to all that took the time to help me..

Very much appreciated..

Comment #12

Use 1600-3200 Iso and shoot in raw-underexpose -2ev so to get faster shutter speedYou will be able to expose correctly when processing.Shoot first-ask questions later.http://www.pbase.com/gzonis/galleries.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window..

Comment #13

Gz927 wrote:.

Use 1600-3200 Iso and shoot in raw-underexpose -2ev so to get fastershutter speedYou will be able to expose correctly when processing.Shoot first-ask questions later.http://www.pbase.com/gzonis/galleries.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU. Most helpful..

Comment #14

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