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Need Help with DSLR Purchase
I'm planning on getting a Canon 40D and I've had a lot of trouble deciding what accessories I need to go along with a DSLR camera. I own a Minolta SRT-101 (though I rarely use it these days) and a Canon PowerShot A70. I plan to mostly take pictures of my family (often indoors) and some general amateur photos. I do enjoy using wide apertures (hence the lens I chose)..

Here's what I'm planning on getting:- Canon 40D body-only (w/ four year warranty)- Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens (should I find a warranty for this?).

- Hoya Super HMC UV filter: I've read that UV filters can be left on the lens and help protect them. I've had some trouble understanding the differences in the UV filters Hoya offers, though.- Sandisk 4GB Extreme IV CF Card w/ Firewire reader- Spare Canon BP511A battery- Lowepro Slingshot 100 backpack.

- PacSafe Carrysafe 100 camera strap: I've read that the straps that come w/ cameras are not very comfortable and with such a heavy lens, I thought it prudent to get a better strap. This strap embeds wires to deter theft. Many of the straps I found had quick release, which seemed pretty dangerous, i.e. could lead to dropping the camera. Recommendations appreciated.- Katz Eye focusing screen w/ grid- Giottos AA1900 Large Rocket Blaster air blower (for sensor cleaning)- Nikon Lens Pen Cleaning System.

Am I over-doing it or is this a good starter kit?..

Comments (24)

Tim Altman wrote:.

I'm planning on getting a Canon 40D and I've had a lot of troubledeciding what accessories I need to go along with a DSLR camera. Iown a Minolta SRT-101 (though I rarely use it these days) and a CanonPowerShot A70. I plan to mostly take pictures of my family (oftenindoors) and some general amateur photos. I do enjoy using wideapertures (hence the lens I chose)..

Here's what I'm planning on getting:- Canon 40D body-only (w/ four year warranty)- Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens (should I find a warranty for this?).

- Hoya Super HMC UV filter: I've read that UV filters can be left onthe lens and help protect them. I've had some trouble understandingthe differences in the UV filters Hoya offers, though..

The lens has a hood, why would you need to protect it with a filter? A circular polarizer would be a more useful filter..

Hoya makes (or sometimes sells under it's brand) several levels of filters, the Hoya web site explains the difference between some of the them. HMC is Hoya multi-coated, it is middle range filter. They come non-coated, single coated, multicoated on one side, multi-coated on both sides, multi-coated and a hard coat on top, and some of the above with thinner glass to avoid vignetting on ultra-wide angle lenses..

- Sandisk 4GB Extreme IV CF Card w/ Firewire reader- Spare Canon BP511A battery- Lowepro Slingshot 100 backpack- PacSafe Carrysafe 100 camera strap: I've read that the straps thatcome w/ cameras are not very comfortable and with such a heavy lens,I thought it prudent to get a better strap. This strap embeds wiresto deter theft. Many of the straps I found had quick release, whichseemed pretty dangerous, i.e. could lead to dropping the camera..

A quick release is important if you frequently work from a tripod, where the strap can really get in the way..

Recommendations appreciated.- Katz Eye focusing screen w/ grid.

Why not try the screen that comes with the camera first, before considering a replacement? Also, there are two alternate Canon screens available..

- Giottos AA1900 Large Rocket Blaster air blower (for sensor cleaning)- Nikon Lens Pen Cleaning System.

Am I over-doing it or is this a good starter kit?.

Yes, but camera equipment manufactures need to pad their retirement accounts as much as anyone..

Brian A...

Comment #1

I think you're overdoing it a bit as well..

Where's the flash gun? I might have missed it in your list, but that's a vital accessory for decent indoor shots.Thin expensive filters are best as they have far fewer fignetting issues..

Polariser is the most useful. You can bracket shoot on a tipod to get HDR nowadays, so a Cokin filter holder on the end of the lens is not as necessary as it once was for landscapes..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #2

You will find the 40D a handful to learn..

Not quite sure why you need an L series lens so quickly. Isn't this rather expensive ?Kit lenses are quite good, especially while learning..

Do not get into the habit of using a CP filter - these have odd effects on the sky and reflections and you need to know what you are doing. You can get one anytime, so what is the rush ? .

Use the lens hood. I don't use a UV filter myself, but some people swear by them. Sometimes they can add a color cast to an image which I prefer to avoid..

I've never had a problem with the strap in relation to a tripod, but I only use a tripod occasionally. Not sure if you need to rush out and get a new strap so quickly. Your big issue with the strap is most likely to be comfort - this is a heavy camera and some people find that a problem..

It's tempting to buy the shop, but the reality is that unless you have very specific needs it is often better to grow your toolkit slowly as you build up experience. The quality leap from P&S to 40D is monumental, as is the learning curve to fully exploit it, and I don't think you need more than that to start with..

The best add on you can get is the extra battery..

Get one other thing - a microfibre cloth - you will need to clean the lens..

StephenG.

Pentax K100DFuji S5200Fuji E900PCLinuxOS..

Comment #3

Hugowolf wrote:.

Tim Altman wrote:.

I'm planning on getting a Canon 40D and I've had a lot of troubledeciding what accessories I need to go along with a DSLR camera. Iown a Minolta SRT-101 (though I rarely use it these days) and a CanonPowerShot A70. I plan to mostly take pictures of my family (oftenindoors) and some general amateur photos. I do enjoy using wideapertures (hence the lens I chose)..

Here's what I'm planning on getting:- Canon 40D body-only (w/ four year warranty)- Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens (should I find a warranty for this?).

- Hoya Super HMC UV filter: I've read that UV filters can be left onthe lens and help protect them. I've had some trouble understandingthe differences in the UV filters Hoya offers, though..

The lens has a hood, why would you need to protect it with a filter?.

I don't know. I've never used a hood before. Can't dust and whatnot still get under the hood?.

A circular polarizer would be a more useful filter..

How so?.

Hoya makes (or sometimes sells under it's brand) several levels offilters, the Hoya web site explains the difference between some ofthe them. HMC is Hoya multi-coated, it is middle range filter. Theycome non-coated, single coated, multicoated on one side, multi-coatedon both sides, multi-coated and a hard coat on top, and some of theabove with thinner glass to avoid vignetting on ultra-wide anglelenses..

OK. I'll have a look at their site. Thank you..

[...].

- PacSafe Carrysafe 100 camera strap: I've read that the straps thatcome w/ cameras are not very comfortable and with such a heavy lens,I thought it prudent to get a better strap. This strap embeds wiresto deter theft. Many of the straps I found had quick release, whichseemed pretty dangerous, i.e. could lead to dropping the camera..

A quick release is important if you frequently work from a tripod,where the strap can really get in the way..

OK. I rarely work with a tripod, so I guess that isn't an issue for me..

- Katz Eye focusing screen w/ grid.

Why not try the screen that comes with the camera first, beforeconsidering a replacement? Also, there are two alternate Canonscreens available..

Right. I'll try the standard screen first. The Minolta I have has a focusing screen similar to the Katz Eye and I quite like it..

Am I over-doing it or is this a good starter kit?.

Yes, but camera equipment manufactures need to pad their retirementaccounts as much as anyone..

*grin*..

Comment #4

John farrar wrote:.

I think you're overdoing it a bit as well.Where's the flash gun? I might have missed it in your list, butthat's a vital accessory for decent indoor shots..

Do you mean like the Speedlite 580EX II? I plan to get that later..

Thin expensive filters are best as they have far fewer fignettingissues..

OK..

Polariser is the most useful. You can bracket shoot on a tipod to getHDR nowadays, so a Cokin filter holder on the end of the lens is notas necessary as it once was for landscapes..

Sorry, I don't quite follow you here. What are HDR and Cokin filters? Why is a polarizer most useful?..

Comment #5

Sjgcit wrote:.

You will find the 40D a handful to learn..

Not quite sure why you need an L series lens so quickly. Isn't thisrather expensive ?Kit lenses are quite good, especially while learning..

I want a good walk-around lens. I also know I'll be shooting indoors and I like having blurred backgrounds (I guess this is called "bokeh"), thus I wanted a versatile zoom lens with a wide aperture..

Do not get into the habit of using a CP filter - these have oddeffects on the sky and reflections and you need to know what you aredoing. You can get one anytime, so what is the rush ? .

What's a CP filter?.

Use the lens hood. I don't use a UV filter myself, but some peopleswear by them. Sometimes they can add a color cast to an image whichI prefer to avoid..

OK..

I've never had a problem with the strap in relation to a tripod, butI only use a tripod occasionally. Not sure if you need to rush outand get a new strap so quickly. Your big issue with the strap ismost likely to be comfort - this is a heavy camera and some peoplefind that a problem..

Right. The lens is also quite heavy..

It's tempting to buy the shop, but the reality is that unless youhave very specific needs it is often better to grow your toolkitslowly as you build up experience. The quality leap from P&S to 40Dis monumental, as is the learning curve to fully exploit it, and Idon't think you need more than that to start with..

True. I'll certain take this into consideration. Right now, I'm leaning toward dropping the Katz Eye and UV filter from my initial purchase..

The best add on you can get is the extra battery..

Good to know..

Get one other thing - a microfibre cloth - you will need to clean thelens..

Righto. Thank you!..

Comment #6

Tim Altman wrote:.

Sjgcit wrote:.

Kit lenses are quite good, especially while learning..

I want a good walk-around lens..

The 24-70 mm is an excellent lens, but for most people the 24 mm isn't wide enough on a crop sensor camera. 1.6 x 24 mm = 38 mm. If you definitely want the 24-70 mm, I would consider getting the kit also, just for the wide end; it only adds about $80 to the price. Or consider getting the newer 18-55 IS, which at $200 would be a go place to start and find out where you want to go from there..

I also know I'll be shooting indoorsand I like having blurred backgrounds.

If you want to get a shallow depth of field, consider one of the normal lenses. The 50 mm f/1.8 isn't particularly well built, but performs well optically and is only $80. There is also the 35 mm f/2, which on the 40D sensor would be equivalent to about a 56 mm lens. Indoors, you can almost always zoom with your feet..

(I guess this is called"bokeh"), thus I wanted a versatile zoom lens with a wide aperture..

Bokeh is a confusing term, adopted into English from the Japanese boke. It refers to the quality of the out of focus area, not the size of the OOF area nor the OOF area itself. You can get good bokeh and bad bokeh, but not shallow bokeh; that would be a shallow depth of field..

Do not get into the habit of using a CP filter - these have oddeffects on the sky and reflections and you need to know what you aredoing. You can get one anytime, so what is the rush ? .

What's a CP filter?.

A circular polarizer (CP) is one of the few filter effects that can be adequately replicated with software. Circular polarizers are used to cut polarized light and in doing so they can deepen the color of sky that would otherwise be blown in a high contrast image. They are also useful for cutting reflections from glass, ceramics, water, etc. They are the most useful supplementary filter for landscapes..

Example of effect with sky:.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Example of cutting reflections:.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Brian A...

Comment #7

Hugowolf wrote:.

Tim Altman wrote:.

Sjgcit wrote:.

Kit lenses are quite good, especially while learning..

I want a good walk-around lens..

The 24-70 mm is an excellent lens, but for most people the 24 mmisn't wide enough on a crop sensor camera. 1.6 x 24 mm = 38 mm. Ifyou definitely want the 24-70 mm, I would consider getting the kitalso, just for the wide end; it only adds about $80 to the price. Orconsider getting the newer 18-55 IS, which at $200 would be a goplace to start and find out where you want to go from there..

Gah, here I thought I had my lens all picked out. You said I should consider getting the kit also. Do you mean get the kit with the 24-135mm lens instead of getting the body and a 24-70mm lens or in addition to? I was thinking about getting the 16-35 f/2.8L later, which would hopefully cover wide angle shots..

I also know I'll be shooting indoorsand I like having blurred backgrounds.

If you want to get a shallow depth of field, consider one of thenormal lenses. The 50 mm f/1.8 isn't particularly well built, butperforms well optically and is only $80. There is also the 35 mm f/2,which on the 40D sensor would be equivalent to about a 56 mm lens.Indoors, you can almost always zoom with your feet..

OK. I suppose I'll need to get a feel for what I can get into a picture with a 50mm lens before deciding to go with the 35 or 50mm prime..

(I guess this is called"bokeh"), thus I wanted a versatile zoom lens with a wide aperture..

Bokeh is a confusing term, adopted into English from the Japaneseboke. It refers to the quality of the out of focus area, not the sizeof the OOF area nor the OOF area itself. You can get good bokeh andbad bokeh, but not shallow bokeh; that would be a shallow depth offield..

Yes, I was referring to a shallow depth of field rather than the bokeh..

Do not get into the habit of using a CP filter - these have oddeffects on the sky and reflections and you need to know what you aredoing. You can get one anytime, so what is the rush ? .

What's a CP filter?.

A circular polarizer (CP) is one of the few filter effects that canbe adequately replicated with software. Circular polarizers are usedto cut polarized light and in doing so they can deepen the color ofsky that would otherwise be blown in a high contrast image. They arealso useful for cutting reflections from glass, ceramics, water, etc.They are the most useful supplementary filter for landscapes..

Good to know. I had planned on a UV/Haze filter, though, not a CP filter. I live in Maryland, which suffers from constant haze and humidity..

Example of effect with sky:.

[...].

Example of cutting reflections:.

[...].

What an amazing difference! Since CP filters cut out some of the light, do you need to use a wider aperture (or equivalent) to accommodate?..

Comment #8

Not as heavy as the 24-70. True it is f4 but has image stabilization..

Stevehttp://vette74.smugmug.com..

Comment #9

Steve Grodin wrote:.

Not as heavy as the 24-70. True it is f4 but has image stabilization..

Does IS do anything for shallow depth of field or is it more important in low light situations?..

Comment #10

If you've got the moolah for the 24-70 L lens.go for it!.

Especially since you are planning on the wider angle lens later..

I would rethink your camera bag choice, however.especially since you plan on growing your system in the future..

It is not all that big.yet the camera/lens combo you are considering is big..

If you can.go to a camera store and look at camera bags and even try putting a 40D with that lens in them..

And consider the other stuff you plan on getting in the future..

I personally don't like those sling bags, anyway (but that's just me).they are cool in theory, but a real PITA in actual use..

I always tell customers when shopping for a camera bag "If it looks like it is the right size, it's probably too small!".

And 99.9% of the time, my prediction is usually correct..

J. D.Colorful Colorado.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Remember.always keep the box and everything that came in it!..

Comment #11

Tim Altman wrote:.

Hugowolf wrote:.

Tim Altman wrote:.

Sjgcit wrote:.

The 24-70 mm is an excellent lens, but for most people the 24 mmisn't wide enough on a crop sensor camera. 1.6 x 24 mm = 38 mm. Ifyou definitely want the 24-70 mm, I would consider getting the kitalso, just for the wide end; it only adds about $80 to the price. Orconsider getting the newer 18-55 IS, which at $200 would be a goodplace to start and find out where you want to go from there..

Gah, here I thought I had my lens all picked out. You said I shouldconsider getting the kit also. Do you mean get the kit with the24-135mm lens instead of getting the body and a 24-70mm lens or inaddition to?.

24-135 mm??? There is a 28-135 mm that some find a good buy and others that think it overrated..

If you want the 24-70 mm, then I would consider a 18-55 mm (preferably the newer IS model, which receives good reviews in everything but build quality) and a wide aperture 50 mm or 35 mm, in addition to the 24-70 mm. You can't get really wide apertures with zooms..

With a good walk around lens you want something for that covers many situations without the need for changing lenses often. The lenses you are looking at, such as the 24-70 mm, are good walk around lenses for a full frame camera, but less useful on a crop sensor..

I was thinking about getting the 16-35 f/2.8L later,which would hopefully cover wide angle shots..

Another excellent lens, at least from 16-24 mm. But unless you are definitely planning full frame in the near future, there are better focal lens ranges than 16-35 and 24-70 mm. But much depends on you subject matter and shooting style. Some do not find the lack of a wide angle a problem, but for my style I would find it a problem having to change lenses to get from normal to moderately wide..

My walk around lens is the 24-105 mm f/4 IS L on a Canon 5D with full frame sensor; that would be equivalent to a 15-65 mm on the 40D. Are there times when miss the one stop advantage of the f/2.9 compared to f/4, sure, but not as many occasions as I would miss the extra range, image stabilization, and somewhat lighter, smaller, less expensive lens. For the 24-70  24-105 mm price difference, you could throw in both the 50 mm f/1.9 and 35 mm f/2..

If you want better IQ than 18-55 mm kit lens for the 40D, consider the EF-S 17-55 mm f/2.8 IS; it would give you a wide to short telephoto aspect and the widest maximum aperture you will find on a Canon zoom (L or otherwise)..

If you want to get a shallow depth of field, consider one of thenormal lenses. The 50 mm f/1.8 isn't particularly well built, butperforms well optically and is only $80. There is also the 35 mm f/2,which on the 40D sensor would be equivalent to about a 56 mm lens.Indoors, you can almost always zoom with your feet..

OK. I suppose I'll need to get a feel for what I can get into apicture with a 50mm lens before deciding to go with the 35 or 50mmprime.Good to know. I had planned on a UV/Haze filter, though, not a CPfilter. I live in Maryland, which suffers from constant haze andhumidity..

I live in Virginia: similar heat, haze, and airborne pollutants. A UV filter is a waste of money on a digital camera. There is a UV filter layer on top of the sensor. If you really feel the need for a protective filter get a clear glass one, multicoated, from a reputable manufacturer such as Hoya, Heliopan, or B & W. Or consider insurance (check with your agent, your household policy may cover you or you may need to get a rider)..

Example of effect with sky:Example of cutting reflections:.

What an amazing difference! Since CP filters cut out some of thelight, do you need to use a wider aperture (or equivalent) toaccommodate?.

Yes. With a good CP you will lose 1-2 stops of light. For sky saturation you will be shooting outdoors and a polarizer only works in cooperation with the sun, so there are no problems with slow shutter speeds or apertures. The camera metering is through the lens (TTL), so it is also through the filter, and automatically compensated for..

In short.

If you get the 40D with the cheap 18- 55 mm non-IS, you will very quickly see what areas you find deficient and what focal lengths you can't do without or wouldn't want to split over two lenses. (You will find the 18-55 deficient.) For the additional $80, you may save hundreds and a lot of grieve and time. Every lens is a compromise between: IQ and cost, focal length range and aperture, size and weight, etc. Only by shooting will you know which direction to go in. FedEx can have a lens on your doorstep the next day..

(If you don't mine the extra cost, consider the 18-55 IS, this would give you better optics and you would be able to see if you can't live without IS.).

You can sell the 18-55 mm on e-bay (they often go for more than their original cost). If you sell the camera in the future, it is a lot easier to sell with a lens than as only a body. If you have a lens failure/accident, you will have a standby lens while Canon fixes your other one..

Brian A...

Comment #12

Oops, reply to the wrong bit of hte thread, see 'longish reply below..

Brian A...

Comment #13

MusicDoctorDJ wrote:.

If you've got the moolah for the 24-70 L lens.go for it!.

Especially since you are planning on the wider angle lens later..

OK..

I would rethink your camera bag choice, however.especiallysince you plan on growing your system in the future..

It is not all that big.yet the camera/lens combo you areconsidering is big..

If you can.go to a camera store and look at camera bags andeven try putting a 40D with that lens in them..

And consider the other stuff you plan on getting in the future..

At the moment, I'm planning on getting one to two additional lenses plus an external flash. I thought all that would fit in the bag, but it's certainly a good idea to give it a try. I'll see if I can find a local store that carries it. Thank you for the suggestion!..

Comment #14

Hugowolf wrote:.

Tim Altman wrote:.

Hugowolf wrote:.

Tim Altman wrote:.

Sjgcit wrote:.

The 24-70 mm is an excellent lens, but for most people the 24 mmisn't wide enough on a crop sensor camera. 1.6 x 24 mm = 38 mm. Ifyou definitely want the 24-70 mm, I would consider getting the kitalso, just for the wide end; it only adds about $80 to the price. Orconsider getting the newer 18-55 IS, which at $200 would be a goodplace to start and find out where you want to go from there..

Gah, here I thought I had my lens all picked out. You said I shouldconsider getting the kit also. Do you mean get the kit with the24-135mm lens instead of getting the body and a 24-70mm lens or inaddition to?.

24-135 mm??? There is a 28-135 mm that some find a good buy andothers that think it overrated..

Yes, sorry, I meant the 28-135mm. Amazon carries it as their kit option for the 40D..

If you want the 24-70 mm, then I would consider a 18-55 mm(preferably the newer IS model, which receives good reviews ineverything but build quality) and a wide aperture 50 mm or 35 mm, inaddition to the 24-70 mm. You can't get really wide apertures withzooms..

With a good walk around lens you want something for that covers manysituations without the need for changing lenses often. The lenses youare looking at, such as the 24-70 mm, are good walk around lenses fora full frame camera, but less useful on a crop sensor..

OK. So, something with a smaller focal length (is that the correct terminology?) such as the 18-55mm EF-S lens would be a better walk-around lens for a crop sensor?.

I was thinking about getting the 16-35 f/2.8L later,which would hopefully cover wide angle shots..

Another excellent lens, at least from 16-24 mm. But unless you aredefinitely planning full frame in the near future, there are betterfocal lens ranges than 16-35 and 24-70 mm. But much depends on yousubject matter and shooting style. Some do not find the lack of awide angle a problem, but for my style I would find it a problemhaving to change lenses to get from normal to moderately wide..

I do want a full frame camera in the future, but that is probably five or so years down the line. I'm trying to buy lenses with that it mind..

My walk around lens is the 24-105 mm f/4 IS L on a Canon 5D with fullframe sensor; that would be equivalent to a 15-65 mm on the 40D. Arethere times when miss the one stop advantage of the f/2.9 compared tof/4, sure, but not as many occasions as I would miss the extra range,image stabilization, and somewhat lighter, smaller, less expensivelens. For the 24-70  24-105 mm price difference, you could throw inboth the 50 mm f/1.9 and 35 mm f/2..

Fair enough. At the moment I'm leaning toward the 28-135mm kit lens to get a feel for what I want out of my second lens. I just hate the idea of buying a lens that will later collect dust on the shelf..

If you want better IQ than 18-55 mm kit lens for the 40D, considerthe EF-S 17-55 mm f/2.8 IS; it would give you a wide to shorttelephoto aspect and the widest maximum aperture you will find on aCanon zoom (L or otherwise)..

OK, I'll consider that..

If you want to get a shallow depth of field, consider one of thenormal lenses. The 50 mm f/1.8 isn't particularly well built, butperforms well optically and is only $80. There is also the 35 mm f/2,which on the 40D sensor would be equivalent to about a 56 mm lens.Indoors, you can almost always zoom with your feet..

OK. I suppose I'll need to get a feel for what I can get into apicture with a 50mm lens before deciding to go with the 35 or 50mmprime.Good to know. I had planned on a UV/Haze filter, though, not a CPfilter. I live in Maryland, which suffers from constant haze andhumidity..

I live in Virginia: similar heat, haze, and airborne pollutants. A UVfilter is a waste of money on a digital camera. There is a UV filterlayer on top of the sensor..

Very good to know. I'll skip it..

Example of effect with sky:Example of cutting reflections:.

What an amazing difference! Since CP filters cut out some of thelight, do you need to use a wider aperture (or equivalent) toaccommodate?.

Yes. With a good CP you will lose 1-2 stops of light. For skysaturation you will be shooting outdoors and a polarizer only worksin cooperation with the sun, so there are no problems with slowshutter speeds or apertures. The camera metering is through the lens(TTL), so it is also through the filter, and automaticallycompensated for..

Good to know..

[...].

If you sell the camera in the future, it is a loteasier to sell with a lens than as only a body. If you have a lensfailure/accident, you will have a standby lens while Canon fixes yourother one..

Very good things to consider. Thank you for all your advice!..

Comment #15

Sometimes shallow depth of field and low light go hand in hand. For me, being 66yrs old, IS helps in all situations. In low light situations I'm usually shooting high ISO and high shutter speed, which means large apertures, and depending on distance can mean shallow depth of field..

Stevehttp://vette74.smugmug.com..

Comment #16

I used that lens with my 10D. When I bought the 5D I also bought the 24-105. IMO the 24-105 is far superior to the 28-135..

Stevehttp://vette74.smugmug.com..

Comment #17

Steve Grodin wrote:.

I used that lens with my 10D. When I bought the 5D I also bought the24-105. IMO the 24-105 is far superior to the 28-135..

How so? Due to IS?..

Comment #18

Steve Grodin wrote:.

Sometimes shallow depth of field and low light go hand in hand. Forme, being 66yrs old, IS helps in all situations. In low lightsituations I'm usually shooting high ISO and high shutter speed,which means large apertures, and depending on distance can meanshallow depth of field..

Makes sense. Thank you...

Comment #19

Sorry, I don't quite follow you here. What are HDR and Cokin.

Filters? >>.

In landscape phtography the dynamic range of the image is often too broad to be recorded in one image without clipping the highlights or shadows at either end. HDR (High Dynamic Range) is a software approach to broadening the range by merging a number of shots at different settings..

Cokin is a brand of optical filters. The photgrapher can slide them in the holder and move them about, thus when using a Graduated Neutral Density filter the transition between bright sky and darker land can be placed where the filter starts to get dark thereby extending the dynamic range..

Why is a polarizer most useful?>>.

It darkens the sky in the direction of the natural polarisation giving a nice blue northern sky (in the northern hemisphere). It tones down any reflections on water or foliage..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr/digital_dartmoor..

Comment #20

It's a very nice lens on a 40D..

Gene..

Comment #21

Tim Altman wrote:.

Steve Grodin wrote:.

I used that lens with my 10D. When I bought the 5D I also bought the24-105. IMO the 24-105 is far superior to the 28-135..

How so? Due to IS?.

No, they're both IS. But the 24-105 is an "L" class professional lens, i.e. from Canon's premium range, and optically has quite an edge on the other. It's also about 2 and a half times the price..

That's not to trash the 28-135 at all (in my book). As mentioned fairly early in this thread, it's both favoured and maligned by various people. Its advantage is that it is quite favourably priced as a good and versatile walkaround lens, and is particularly suited to cameras with a significant crop factor, e.g. the EOS 10D through 30D. A full-frame body such as the 5D is going to show why this is the case, and I'd say that in matching it to his 5D Steve unquestionably made the right choice..

On the other bodies you're using only the best part of the lens, due to the crop factor, and it's remarkable what you can get away with, because of this, with the 28-135. It can be a bit soft and down on contrast, but it's images happen to respond very well to intelligent post-processing..

The 24-105 is a superb, no-compromise optic. But we're not all made of money, and appreciating and exploiting the 28-135's centre (close to axis) performance leaves you with an economy lens that IMO can do a very good job indeed with a little coaxing. There's no compromise with it's IS, either, nor (from the limited time I've spend handling a 24-105) does it lag in the autofocus stakes..

The 24-105 is also faster, at a constant f/4 max throughout it's zoom range..

As a bit of an aside, everything seems to be getting cheaper and more compromised these days. I moved from a 20 year old Oly OM2n system, and the 28-135 was my first DSLR lens. I found myself quite disgusted by the amount of lateral slop in the telescoping front section, but later discovered this to be well enough known. It was fairly recently that I got my hands on a 24-105 and found it to be not all that much better in that department. Better, but still a joke compared to the old Oly gear..

It's what we appear content to call "progress" .

MikeMelbourne.

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Comment #22

Mike Fitzgerald wrote:.

Tim Altman wrote:.

Steve Grodin wrote:.

I used that lens with my 10D. When I bought the 5D I also bought the24-105. IMO the 24-105 is far superior to the 28-135..

How so? Due to IS?.

No, they're both IS. But the 24-105 is an "L" class professionallens, i.e. from Canon's premium range, and optically has quite anedge on the other. It's also about 2 and a half times the price..

Ahh, I didn't realize the 24-105 was an L lens. Thank you for all the additional comparsion information!.

[...].

It's what we appear content to call "progress" .

Aye. ..

Comment #23

R Valentino wrote:.

It's a very nice lens on a 40D..

What do you mean by true USM?..

Comment #24

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