I've been reading in these forums and elsewhere about incorrectexposure due to wrong ISO settings. I get the impression that manyshots I've taken fall into that category (Nikon D80). Cause:unfamiliarity with the camera settings (that is being rectifiedthanks to people here). I am interested in fixes for shots taken atan ISO setting of 1600 when I think a setting of 100 would havesufficed. Please seehttp://www.umefotographie.com/study.html?1191415702723for attempts at fixing. What would you do (excepting reshoot)?http://www.umefotographie.com.
Can't really tell from that size but for that subject I'd just reshoot. No need for anything over ISO 100 there as it's a static subject so just use a tripod..
When you shoot a subject with a lot of bright area, such as this mostly white poster, your camera is going to meter low, since it's looking to get an average of 18% gray. What you need to do when shooting this is bias the EV+1 or so - it's a digital now so you can take a shot, review it, and readjust and shoot another easily..
If you want to just use your current photo, it looks like adjusting exposure in RAW is working well. Otherwise you can always do a levels adjustment in photoshop...
You will note that image #3 (the NX white correction) is closest to correct. The whites are near where they should be and the blacks are still rich and deep. Ergo, a full tonal range..
It would make NO difference in the tonal renderings prior to PP by changing ISO..
It WOULD make a difference if you ADDED 2 EVs of light to get the whites up where they are in #3 (note they are lighter than #2 which is +1)..
If you COULD add a little black point correction to deepen the blacks, based on the NX features, that may help a bit too..
The risk of high ISOs in this case, as usually, is NOISE. Nobody can tell from these inserts if it is bad in the examples.Van..
I have not much to add to what has been said. I note the photo was taken 1/250th f/4 ISO 1600 at 60mm.
I am not sure what lens was used but you should seriously consider a very low shutter speed and lower ISO but stopping down a touch. Depending on the lens used it might be that f/4 was wide open. f/5.6 or f/8 would give you better corner sharpness..
Use the self-timer on a tripod to minimise any movement from pressing the shutter and a really slow shutter speed should be fine. I would try ISO 200 (marginally better highlight range).
I note that you are using NX 1.1. Why don't you download the upgrade to 1.2. It will not cost you anything (Or have I got the photo date wrong? It reads as 3rd October 2007 to me. Maybe it should be 10th March 2007).
*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.
Any piece of free software can correct these shots to bring back the original white or slightly yellowish colour of the background.try out a thing like irfanview, you'll be surprised..
To avoid the same problems you might want to 'adopt' a grey chart and a tripod, plus a book which takes you through the 'how to' from a photographers point of view...
Try Noise Ninja. It's designed to reduce digital noise..
Here is link to research and try: http://www.picturecode.com/download.htm.
P.S. with static subjects is always best to take a time, place camera on tripod and shot with with ISO 100 as long exposure as needed for diaphragm setting chosen..
Here are 2 examples shot at f/4 and f/16 with ISO 100 use.
You know that is right for sure. The old acid-eaten paper though is giving me print reproduction fits. The monitor is one thing; print results on matte is another.-Garrison-http://www.umefotographie.com..
I don't know if I've got enough starch left to tackle Photoshop; does it take Raw as in the NEFs from the Nikon D80? I'll find out. Thank you for your suggestions.-Garrisonhttp://www.umefotographie.com..
Use same camera, lens, lighting, same setup, but just lower ISO with tripod use. Lower ISO produces best detail on every digital camera. When reflections/glare comes to play - add Circular Polarizing filter to your setup and rotate filter external ring till minimal reflections..