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Ignoramus here (Super Newbie)
Let start by apologizing ahead of time for my lack of camera knowledge.Sorry......I have an old 35 MM Nikon 6006 (i think?).

It's about 10 years old. I have 2 lenses for it and plenty of filters. My parents spoiled me with it when I took an interest in Photography in High school. Well the interest is back. I want to purchase a new digital camera and don't know if these lenses and filters are compatible with digital cameras?.

Also, I would appreciate any suggestions on a new digital camera (around $700) or maybe even a really good point and shoot. As most of my photos are taken from the back of a moving motorcycle; durability, a large LCD display screen, ease of use and less baggage is important. But as long as I can fit it all in a small backpack I'm happy..

Thanks..

Comments (15)

The N6006 is an autofocus camera, so presumably, your accompanying lenses are also Nikon or Nikon mount autofocus lenses. You can mount these and use their full autofocus functionality on any of the modern Nikon DSLR bodies. They'd best be suited to the Nikon D80, D200 or D300, or, if you can find one, a D50. You **could** use them on the D40 or D60, but only in manual focus. These two cameras would require the use of an AF-S lens as they do not have a motor to drive the lens' autofocus feature..

Sorry, I can't help you with a P&S. I'd probably go for the D80. I can also highly recommend the D200 (I shoot with it), but sadly, this workhorse of a camera, while still available at stores/online, was recently discontinued by Nikon...

Comment #1

YamaMama wrote:.

Let start by apologizing ahead of time for my lack of camera knowledge.Sorry......I have an old 35 MM Nikon 6006 (i think?)It's about 10 years old. I have 2 lenses for it and plenty offilters. My parents spoiled me with it when I took an interest in.

Thanks.

No need to apologize. Welcome back. Those two lenses will work just fine on a Nikon D80. D80s have a great glass pentaprism with a beautiful bright viewfinder. They can be had pretty inexpensively right now, so have fun..

Tell us about those two lenses..

Cheers, Craig..

Comment #2

If you're shooting from a moving motorcycle, I would think you need optical image stabilization, either in lens or sensor shift. for $700, about the only dslr I know of with live view and ois under $700 is the sony alpha (the sensor shift ois helps keep costs down). if you want a non-dlsr, there's the fuji s100fs. there's probably more options for a camera with optical image stabilization and live view for $700, but these are the ones I know about...

Comment #3

Check out the Nikon d60 kit. The kit lenses are stabilized and this is a small dslr. You ought to handle the camera and decide if the size would work for you...

Comment #4

Thank you everyone for your help. If I can find a tall enough ladder, or some barstools and books, I'll definitely get that old Nikon and lenses out from the very top of my hallway closet. Would my old Nikon be worth anything if I tried to ebay it without lenses? I definitely want to keep the lenses if they will work on the D80 (if thats the one I choose?) I'll follow up with a description of both the old nikon and lenses later after I clear the cobbwebs. Thanks again guys..

Vroom Vroom!..

Comment #5

YamaMama wrote:.

Thank you everyone for your help. If I can find a tall enough ladder,or some barstools and books, I'll definitely get that old Nikon andlenses out from the very top of my hallway closet. Would my old Nikonbe worth anything if I tried to ebay it without lenses? I definitelywant to keep the lenses if they will work on the D80 (if thats theone I choose?) I'll follow up with a description of both the oldnikon and lenses later after I clear the cobbwebs. Thanks again guys..

Vroom Vroom!.

It really depends on what lenses. The body doesn't appear to be worth much on the bay, maybe 50 bucks. With the lenses, it depends what you have. The kind of basic consumer stuff (28-80 and such) doesn't bring much, but if you have some more interesting stuff, it would have some value. If you have some more interesting stuff though, I'd just buy a D80 and keep the lenses...

Comment #6

Timcredible wrote:.

If you're shooting from a moving motorcycle, I would think you needoptical image stabilization, either in lens or sensor shift. for$700, about the only dslr I know of with live view and ois under $700is the sony alpha (the sensor shift ois helps keep costs down). ifyou want a non-dlsr, there's the fuji s100fs. there's probably moreoptions for a camera with optical image stabilization and live viewfor $700, but these are the ones I know about..

Bizarre advice! IS/VR will not stop the passing countyside from being a blur. It will only stop/minimise camera shake..

The only way to get decent shots from a moving motorcycle (unless you deliberately want to give a sense of movement in the shot) is a high shutter speed..

IS/VR would help if taking a shot from a moving mototcycle of another motorcycle moving in the same direction at or near the same speed IF but only if using a slow shutter speed..

To the OP: Given the 1.5 x crop factor your 28-80 (or 35-xxxx) will not be wide enough for many shots. You may want to consider another lens 17 or 18- 70 or similar. 18mm x 1.5 = 27mm 35mm equivalent. You get the idea. Do come back and tell us what you have got..

The body is only likely to have real value if sold with the lenses. You are probably best off keeping it for a rainy day..

-Chris Elliott*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #7

The lenses from that era will not AF on a D40/60 as people have said, so if you want a Nikon then it's a D80 or a used D50/70 (both good cams).Shay son of Che..

Comment #8

Chris Elliott wrote:.

Bizarre advice! IS/VR will not stop the passing countyside from beinga blur. It will only stop/minimise camera shake..

I'm not so sure; depends on what you're shooting & how far away it is. Anything close, along the side of the road, will be a blur; a distant subject will be fine, but you may very well want a stabilized camera/lens. I think of photographers who shoot the earth from low flying ultralights using stabilized lenses/cameras (even the Kenyon Labs gyro stabilizer before IS/VR became popular) but managed to not have motion blur..

To the OP: Given the 1.5 x crop factor your 28-80 (or 35-xxxx) willnot be wide enough for many shots. You may want to consider anotherlens 17 or 18- 70 or similar. 18mm x 1.5 = 27mm 35mm equivalent. Youget the idea. Do come back and tell us what you have got..

Agreed; a tele zoom might be fun to play with, but a 'normal' zoom for a film camera (assuming it's a kit lens and not a 28-70/2.8 or something) is probably best replaced with an APS-C kit lens like Chris mentions ... Nikon & Canon are both selling stabilized kit lenses (I believe; Canon's new 18-55 IS is supposed to be a nice lens) and kit lenses for Oly/Sony/Pentax setups will be stabilized (assuming a stabilized body; watch for that feature when looking at different models). The Nikon D80 is a very nice camera, but the more compact, lighter weight D40/60 models might be a better choice even if it means replacing the old lenses with newer ones with in-lens focus motors..

Are you sure an SLR is what you want ? A compact digicam could be easier to handle, allow for framing away from your face, provide greater depth of field wide open (look for a reasonably fast lens, though most have f/2.8 at the wide end where you'd likely shoot a lot). (Framing via the LCD could be tough in bright sunlight though, so ask around before buying). The Sony A300 also offers something called "fast AF live view" which allows you to frame via the LCD like a digicam..

- DennisGallery at http://kingofthebeasts.smugmug.com..

Comment #9

YamaMama wrote:.

Or maybe even a really good point and shoot. As most ofmy photos are taken from the back of a moving motorcycle; durability,a large LCD display screen, ease of use and less baggage isimportant..

I mentioned in my other reply the possibility of a digicam instead of a DSLR and I'm inclined to reiterate that. You mention "large LCD" which makes me wonder if you're thinking of composing shots via the LCD. Only the Sony A300 & A350 allow for digicam-like live view through the LCD (ok, maybe one or two Oly models, too, I'm just not up on those) while other cameras that do offer live view (many don't !) either require manual focus or implement a slower autofocus and are somewhat kludgy. I really think that if I were shooting from the back of a moving motorcycle, I'd want a good digicam with a decent optical viewfinder (in addition to live view, of course). Something like a Canon G9, but with a wider lens. (I don't keep up on digicam offerings)..

- DennisGallery at http://kingofthebeasts.smugmug.com..

Comment #10

Ok... The body is a Nikon N6006Lenses I have:Nikkor 80-200mm f/4.5-f/5.6 dafand Nikkor 28-80mm f3.5-f5.6 daf.

I had a chance to price them comparing them to others on ebay. So I have an idea of whats in store for me. I think my main concern is just trying some out now..

The desire for the large lcd screen is for ease of viewing. I wear a full helmet. Not like those half helmet beatle looking helmets you see a lot. (Half a helmet is for half a brain and people who like the taste of asphalt.) Mine has a plastic visor that flips up and down, I can't imagine putting the viewfinder up to my eye, hang on and have a nice picture come out of it. Which again is pointing me towards a digicam..

I'm glad you all told me about the stabilizing in both body and lens as I wouldn't have even known that existed. I guess it's just time to shop around and try some out now.Again thanks...

Comment #11

YamaMama wrote:.

Ok... The body is a Nikon N6006Lenses I have:Nikkor 80-200mm f/4.5-f/5.6 dafand Nikkor 28-80mm f3.5-f5.6 daf.

You could re-use those lenses with a current Nikon body such as a D80 or D300 but I'm not sure how good a lens they are I'll leave that for a Nikkor expert to answer. I would suggest hanging onto them and your film body, you would be suprised how many people 'go digital' only to decide to pick up a film system again after the honeymoon period is over..

I had a chance to price them comparing them to others on ebay. So Ihave an idea of whats in store for me. I think my main concern isjust trying some out now..

The desire for the large lcd screen is for ease of viewing. I wear afull helmet. Not like those half helmet beatle looking helmets yousee a lot. (Half a helmet is for half a brain and people who like thetaste of asphalt.) Mine has a plastic visor that flips up and down, Ican't imagine putting the viewfinder up to my eye, hang on and have anice picture come out of it. Which again is pointing me towards adigicam..

A digicam might be your best bet if you want to use the LCD for shooting and get responsive handling. Additionally the small and light form factor of a digicam might be easier to handle on the back of a bike..

If you do decide to go the DSLR route, only three cameras I can think of give you a really responsive 'live view' experience. The Sony Alpha A300/350, or the now discontinued Olympus E-330. One point in favour of the Oly is that they are going for a real bargain price brand new right now..

Http://forums.dpreview.com/...amp;message=28696087&q=e330+cameta&qf=m.

You could even use your old Nikkor lenses via an adaptor, although in full manual mode..

I'm glad you all told me about the stabilizing in both body and lensas I wouldn't have even known that existed. I guess it's just time toshop around and try some out now.Again thanks...

Comment #12

Dennis wrote:.

Chris Elliott wrote:.

Bizarre advice! IS/VR will not stop the passing countyside from beinga blur. It will only stop/minimise camera shake..

I'm not so sure; depends on what you're shooting & how far away itis. Anything close, along the side of the road, will be a blur; adistant subject will be fine, but you may very well want a stabilizedcamera/lens. I think of photographers who shoot the earth from lowflying ultralights using stabilized lenses/cameras (even the KenyonLabs gyro stabilizer before IS/VR became popular) but managed to nothave motion blur..

On a microlight I would agree. You would get engine and wind vibration through the frame, it is impossible to get off and shoot and most importantly you are photographing distant landscapes 100% of the time. Thus a wide aperture low light lens cannot be the lens of choice. Something that gives good results at f/8- f/11 is what is required (any higher and you get diffraction). Axiomatically there will commonly be little subject movement on the landscape 800 yards to several miles away. Additionally the cam well well be clamped to the airframe exascerbating the vibration..

On a motorbike your view will be entirely different. Your view will often be roadside feature rushing by at high speed, and the people at the roadside. The percentage of distant landscapes will be proportionally very low and thus the need for IS will be low. The proportion of shots that would benefit from fast glass to give subject isolation and eliminate motion blur will be much higher than shots needing VR..

In addition you can always stop to shoot a good landscape and use a wall & beanbag, monopod or whatever (Gorillapod?). That is not an option at 1,000 feet!!.

Chris Elliott.

*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #13

Will the Oly E 330 work with my lenses?..

Comment #14

YamaMama wrote:.

Will the Oly E 330 work with my lenses?.

Yes you can, via an adaptor like this..

Http://cgi.ebay.com/...0QQcategoryZ30059QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem.

It's not a simple process however, you would need to use manual focus and stop-down metering. Additionally it's something that's best to be done with only the sharpest of lenses as 4/3rds requires lenses with twice the resolving power of 35mm. See this article by J. Andrzej Wrotniak.http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/43/any-lens.html..

Comment #15

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