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how to take pics with no flash
Hello everyone..

Here's one more beginner to flood this world of questions and dilemas. I would like to know how can I produce a picture that truly represents the colors I see? Meaning, if I use flash they'll appear too bright... if I dont they'll come out blurry... If I set my Aperture value to 0"3 in ISO 400 they still come out a little blurry... all I'm trying to do make my picture look sharp without using flash.

I hope I'm making sense here.....

I just bought a Canon Rebel XT(350d) and that's the cam I'm using(experiencing)..

Thanks so much... .

Daubian..

Comments (8)

Experiment with manual White balance and definitely use a tripod..

'Practice doesnt make perfect, perfect practice doesnt make perfect. Practice makes improvements and improvements lead to excellence!'Just practice!.

Fujifilm Finepix E550 and F20Pentax K100d..

Comment #1

You need to learn how to use flash. A good flash picture looks like one was never used. On board flash should not be relied on - a good external flash is key as you can bounce it off ceilings, walls, etc to soften the light. Also learn about flash exposure compensation..

Daubian wrote:.

Hello everyone..

Here's one more beginner to flood this world of questions anddilemas. I would like to know how can I produce a picture that trulyrepresents the colors I see? Meaning, if I use flash they'll appeartoo bright... if I dont they'll come out blurry... If I set myAperture value to 0"3 in ISO 400 they still come out a littleblurry... all I'm trying to do make my picture look sharp withoutusing flash.

I hope I'm making sense here.....

I just bought a Canon Rebel XT(350d) and that's the cam I'musing(experiencing)..

Thanks so much... .

Daubian.

Some cool cats that can use your helphttp://www.wildlife-sanctuary.org.

Even if you can't donate, please help spread the word...

Comment #2

Whether it's the color or the blurriness that's your complaint......maybe both?Let's start with blurry..

If you must hand hold, then up the ISO to 1600, and keep the lens at the wide end of the zoom range and the apature at the smallest number available. The problem you will have here is that the typical kit lens (the one that came with the camera) is probably not optimally sharp wide open, but at least you will minimize motion blurr. Learn to lock your elbows into your sides, take a deep breath and let half of it out, slowly apply pressure to the shutter untill the picture is taken. In other words develop your steadyness. With practice your pictures will get sharper and sharper. If your subject is moving, learn to pan with the subject as you slowly add pressure to the shutter button..

If you can use a tripod and your subjects will agree to hold still then set the apature to about f8 and ISO to about 400. Nice compromise between noise and shutter speed. The typical kit lens is most sharp about at f8..

For color you will probably have to either shoot raw and then adjust when you develop the raw picture....or use a custom white balance off either a white sheet of paper (your manual will tell you how to do a custom WB) or a photo grey card if your going to shoot jpeg..

There is also software that will help http://www.focusmagic.com/.

Clear as mud?A member of the rabble in good standing...

Comment #3

Daubian wrote:.

I would like to know how can I produce a picture that trulyrepresents the colors I see?.

This is a white balance issue. Either use one of the preset WB or learn how to use the custom WB on your camera - p 57 on the english XT manual..

Meaning, if I use flash they'll appeartoo bright.

It is now an exposure issue. You should try to lower either the flash exposure compensation or the regular exposure compensation..

... if I dont they'll come out blurry... If I set myAperture value to 0"3 in ISO 400 they still come out a littleblurry... all I'm trying to do make my picture look sharp withoutusing flash.

I'm not sure how you get an Av value of 0"3 in your camera. I'm assuming that you mean a Tv value of 0"3, which is 0.3 seconds. This is way too slow for anything other than a static scene with a tripod..

I hope I'm making sense here.....

I'm guessing that you are shooting in a dark indoor environment with one of the preset scene modes. Just a suggestion. Play around in P mode at ISO 800 or 1600 - some with the flash off and some with the flash on...

Comment #4

When using direct flash the colors are right in THAT light. if you use a external flash and mount it to the hotshoe and the flash has bounce ability you can angle it at a 45degree angle and bouce the light from the ceiling. change the shooting mode to program or auto and the camera/flash selects the fstop and shutter speed. note the shutter speed can be no higher than the camera's xsync speed or the flash will not work right..

For no flash. set iso to 1600, fstop to wideopen, use aperature priority, and let camera select shutter speed. shutter speed should be 1/60 or faster. if not use iso3200. if shutter speed not fast enough you need a faster lens because the light conditions are too dim.or use flash, dim conditions are what it is there for..

Note when using flash set shutter speed to xsync, it is in your owner's manual. it is simpler to use flash with program mode or auto mode and let the camera do the work till you get the hang of flash..

Note- colors are not going to be screaming bright in all conditions. it depends on the colors, conditions, and light...

Comment #5

Daubian wrote:.

Hello everyone..

Here's one more beginner to flood this world of questions anddilemas. I would like to know how can I produce a picture that trulyrepresents the colors I see? Meaning, if I use flash they'll appeartoo bright... if I dont they'll come out blurry... If I set myAperture value to 0"3 in ISO 400 they still come out a littleblurry... all I'm trying to do make my picture look sharp withoutusing flash.

If using flash is not an option, then you will need a fast lens and high ISO. for the shutter speed you have referenced, 1/3rd of a sec, that is way to slow to handhold under any circumstance. Shutter speeds in that range require the use of a tripod..

As far as a fast lens goes, you should consider a Canon 50/1.8. It is fast and has decent low light performance capabilities and it is also reasonably priced. In terms of a zoom lens, you would be looking at something in the f/2.8 range, such as a 17-50/2.8, a 17-35/2.8 or a 28-70/2.8. These are as fast as you will typically find in a zoom but they are also professional grade optics so you can expect to pay, on the order of about $500 for Sigma or Tamron optics and about twice that for a Canon optic..

Even then, you will most likely need a tripod for some shots as well. The basic rule of thumb is for hand holding for a stead picture is to shoot at a speed of about 1/2*(focal length). So, for a 17-50/2.8 zoom, you can shoot at a speed of about 1/30th of a second at the wide angle lens, but will need about 1/100th of a second at the tele end. (I've thrown in the factor of 2 to account for the crop factor found in most DSLRs and rounded up to 2 to make the math easy!)..

So basically, a fast lens, high ISO and a tripod....or get an external flash and learn how to use as other posters have said. You can make excellent images and yet no one will know the lfash is there if used correctly.JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..

Comment #6

Along the lines of what imac said, here are some techniques and samples of natural-looking flash:.

Http://planetneil.com/...lash-photography-techniques/1-natural-looking-flash/Also check out the strobist blog if you haven't already done so..

Good luck!.

IMac, therefore iAm wrote:.

You need to learn how to use flash. A good flash picture looks likeone was never used. On board flash should not be relied on - a goodexternal flash is key as you can bounce it off ceilings, walls, etcto soften the light. Also learn about flash exposure compensation...

Comment #7

One day you will learn to take your Flash off the camera, and use this placeable light source to make fantastic photos....

But right now, you just want to master natural light photography. So here's the things to help you get there quick....

Blur is caused by movement of your cam while the shutter is open. ok fine you could use a tripod, but let's say you don't want to. Then you must face the fact that slower shutterspeeds are your enemy. If you have the light, and can shoot at 1/500, then you will notice your pics are nice and sharp. But nobody generally has the light to shoot at 1/500 indoors. Maybe your current lens is giving 1/15 indoors.  that's a LONG way off from where you want to be in the higher shutterspeeds..

So the solutions are....

- get "faster" glass. or lenses that have a lower F-stop because the will let in a LOT more light than your average lens, and this DIRECTLY allows you to shoot at higher shutterspeeds..

- use a higher ISO, accept a bit more noise, but get a SHARP pic..

- when shooting fast moving children, try shooting in "burst" mode. This will increase your chances of a keeper..

This stuff is in addition to just basic "trying to be still" camera technique.;-) But for me personally, it wasn't until I gave proper attention to staying at least over 1/125 (prefer 1/250 or more), that I could get consistently sharp pics with no flash..

Good luck!.

Http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcovert..

Comment #8

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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