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How do I fix overexposed pictures with Photoshop CS3?
Hi guys, I just got a copy of CS3 and I'm wondering how do you fix overexposed pictures? I'm very new to PS CS3 so some good and easy to understand instructions would be great!..

Comments (11)

If by overexposing you mean blown out areas, then you can't fix it with any software. Else you can start with shadow highlight feature, later with levels and curves..

Sgt_Strider wrote:.

Hi guys, I just got a copy of CS3 and I'm wondering how do you fixoverexposed pictures? I'm very new to PS CS3 so some good and easy tounderstand instructions would be great!.

Best Wishes, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..

Comment #1

Try this.

Image>Adjustments> levels>.

You'll see an histogram with tree cursors on the X -Axia. Move the white to the left..

And move from there. You can also use it if a specific colour is clipped (e.g a red flower that has lost it's texture) using the channels drop-down box and selecting the appropriate colour..

Even easier is Image>Adjustments>Auto levels.

I believe you can find more detailed explanation in PS Help..

You can also experiment with Image>Adjustments>Curves and moving the right end down. You can also try to change the shape of the straight line to an S..

Maybe it's interesting to do the former in a separate layer (layer>new adjustment layer) and you can save the original image and the retouched layer, have different adjustment for evaluating later when your eyes don't hurt, or play with transparency levels..

Good luck and regards.

My Galleries:http://webs.ono.com/igonzalezbordes/index.html..

Comment #2

PS is not easy to learn and takes time.For great computer video training, Tryhttp://www.lynda.comlook up PSCS3http://www.lynda.com/deke for a free 7 day trial.

Ed..

Comment #3

It's a very handy tool that can almost do miracles in saving blown out highlights. It helps if you start with a raw image, since jpeg will have far less data to salvage..

Use S/H on full size images, before any resizing. Keep the radius at 6 and under to begin with, otherwise you may see tell-tale halos. 20% is a good starting point on all the slider values. Then reduce if possible to avoid making the picture look artificial. If you have overexposed you may wind up setting the shadow values to 0 and the highlight to 40% or more..

The more advanced solutions is to create different layers and adjust levels and curves on the adjustment layers. That will definitely give you more control. Even shadow highlight can be done on a duplicate layer, that way you can erase everything that should not be handled by S/H..

And just for the record, Photoshop Elements might be a better starting point. Very intuitive and easier learning curve if you are new to post processing.http://www.pbase.com/kingfisher/..

Comment #4

Ajay0612 wrote:.

If by overexposing you mean blown out areas, then you can't fix itwith any software. Else you can start with shadow highlight feature,later with levels and curves..

Sgt_Strider wrote:.

Hi guys, I just got a copy of CS3 and I'm wondering how do you fixoverexposed pictures? I'm very new to PS CS3 so some good and easy tounderstand instructions would be great!.

Best Wishes, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.

Am I using the wrong word here? I thought it would be best to overexpose than underexpose as some people say "shoot to the right" or something like that...

Comment #5

Michael G2 wrote:.

It's a very handy tool that can almost do miracles in saving blownout highlights. It helps if you start with a raw image, since jpegwill have far less data to salvage..

Use S/H on full size images, before any resizing. Keep the radius at6 and under to begin with, otherwise you may see tell-tale halos. 20%is a good starting point on all the slider values. Then reduce ifpossible to avoid making the picture look artificial. If you haveoverexposed you may wind up setting the shadow values to 0 and thehighlight to 40% or more..

The more advanced solutions is to create different layers and adjustlevels and curves on the adjustment layers. That will definitely giveyou more control. Even shadow highlight can be done on a duplicatelayer, that way you can erase everything that should not be handledby S/H..

And just for the record, Photoshop Elements might be a betterstarting point. Very intuitive and easier learning curve if you arenew to post processing.http://www.pbase.com/kingfisher/.

I appreciate the help and the suggestion, but why would I want to use PSE now that I have a copy of PS? I'm not going to go and get a refund. Since I have it, I mind as well try to learn and use it no matter how difficult it is...

Comment #6

You would not. Stick with PS as it is the photographers choice of programme.Jules.

Sgt_Strider wrote:.

I appreciate the help and the suggestion, but why would I want to usePSE now that I have a copy of PS? I'm not going to go and get arefund. Since I have it, I mind as well try to learn and use it nomatter how difficult it is..

Why can't you blow bubbles with chewing gum?..

Comment #7

Sgt_Strider wrote:.

Am I using the wrong word here? I thought it would be best tooverexpose than underexpose as some people say "shoot to the right"or something like that..

No, overexposure is the hardest to fix, and usually impossible. If you shoot RAW you can sometimes rescue blown highlight by dialling down the exposure in conversion, but it's not ideal..

Lightening underexposure usually works much better, but will emphasis noise in excessively underexposed shots..

You should aim for the right of the histogram - correct, but without piling up the pixels on the right edge. Note that the last (right) sector has more data then the others combined..

Alex.

Http://alexandjustine.smugmug.com/..

Comment #8

The histogram is a 3 sided box with the open side facing up. the vertical left wall is the dark side limit and the vertical right wall is the highlight limit..

In use the histigram after the shot should have a wiggelly line between the 2 vertical sides. idea is to have the line hit the floor of the histogram before it hits either wall. hiting the left wall can be tolerated and sometime cannot be avoided. but hitting the right wall is to be avoided at all costs. if the line hits the right wall you have blown the highlights somewhere in the picture. ANY HIGHLIGHTS BLOWN CANNOT BE RECOVERED.

No postprocessing is to bring them back..

The phrase "expose to the right" means shoot the scene with an exposure that puts the line in the histogram as close as possible to the right wall but does not touch it before the line hits the floor. this exposure puts as much data in the sensor as possible without causing an overload and blowing the highlights. upon returning to the pc and after downloading the picture may seem somewhat bright, (this is the effect of exposing to the right), this can corrected by simply lowering the brightness of the overall scene. the simplest way of doing this is to use auto levels in pe or csx. or the use of other adjustments...

Comment #9

If you are shooting raw this would be the best bet. Open the raw file and use the exposure and highlight controls to bring them into gamut, then use brightness to make the overall photo lighter again without blowing out details..

If you are shooting jpegs use the highlight/shadow tool and play with the settings there until you rescue as much as you can..

I hope this helps..

Brukerhttp://www.brucekersten.com..

Comment #10

I was assuming you did not buy the software without ever having used it. Especially since Adobe allows you to download and use a full version for thirty days absolutely free. I think many users get there hands on PS and Elements that way. And in that case there is still an opportunity to test and choose alternative tools..

Http://www.pbase.com/kingfisher/..

Comment #11

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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