Yes I use them in camera D80, as well as in PP using PSCS3..
They are very useful so I would recommend learning what they are actually displaying and getting very comfortable with them..
This is one link and I am sure you will get many other references posted in the next few hours...
Who here actually uses them? To me it's just something that takes upspace on my LCD screen. Of course I'm brand new Do all of you usethem? Are they good for PP? Where can I find a tutorial on how tomaximize their use?..
As Ed has said, very very useful, especially for checking whether you have any blown highlights immediately after taking the shot..
Here is another link from this site's Learn/Glossary section:http://www.dpreview.com/.../learn/?/Glossary/Digital_Imaging/Histogram_01.htm.
The main thing that you need to learn is how to recognised an overexposed image with blown highlights - about 2/3 of the way down the page.Chris R..
Ed Grenzig wrote:.
They are very useful so I would recommend learning what they areactually displaying and getting very comfortable with them..
Agree very much. Here're some links for starters....
Cambridge tutorial in two parts...part 1.http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htmpart 2http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms2.htm.
... and if you want it really simple....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3yiz1sBKLc&feature=related.
The histogram is a 3 sided box with the open side facing up. the vertical left wall is the dark side limit and the vertical right wall is the highlight limit..
In use the histigram after the shot should have a wiggelly line between the 2 vertical sides. idea is to have the line hit the floor of the histogram before it hits either wall. hiting the left wall can be tolerated and sometime cannot be avoided. but hitting the right wall is to be avoided at all costs. if the line hits the right wall you have blown the highlights somewhere in the picture. ANY HIGHLIGHTS BLOWN CANNOT BE RECOVERED.
No postprocessing is to bring them back..
The phrase "expose to the right" means shoot the scene with an exposure that puts the line in the histogram as close as possible to the right wall but does not touch it before the line hits the floor. this exposure puts as much data in the sensor as possible without causing an overload and blowing the highlights. upon returning to the pc and after downloading the picture may seem somewhat bright, (this is the effect of exposing to the right), this can corrected by simply lowering the brightness of the overall scene. the simplest way of doing this is to use auto levels in pe or csx. or the use of other adjustments...
[ e d @ h a l l e yc c ] http://www.halley.cc/pix/..
I've been reading about them too; but from a scanning/photoshop point of view mostly because I don't have a fancy camera. A Google search led me to: marginalsoftware.com. There is a "patient", indepth, tutorial (free) and for $30 USD they very promptly sent a hard copy (in B/W) that parallels the tutorial on their site. "A Primer on Image HIstograms and Curves: Taking voodoo and Black Magic out of Creating Quality Scans" is the title of the 160 page 8 1/2 X 11 soft cover book. Because I am a high functioning moron it is a challenge to totally "grock" it; but it may be the best serious, but not fatal, introduction to Histograms.Clueless..
Ed Grenzig wrote:.
Yes I use them in camera D80, as well as in PP using PSCS3.They are very useful so I would recommend learning what they areactually displaying and getting very comfortable with them.This is one link and I am sure you will get many other referencesposted in the next few hours...
You don't need "no" histogram to tell you if you've blown your highlights or blocked your shadows: just look at the shot in "review"..
Anyway, who takes shots represented by "bell-shaped" histograms, and if they did, they would be boring as all hell. Any "interesting" or "arty" shots are bound to have "skewed" histograms that wouldn't tell you anything worth a damn!..
What sort of a histogram would this picture have?.