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help with shooting the moon (1 image)
Hi.

I am a beginner with a Canon 400D, I am trying to shoot the moon in the afternoon, I took this shot (it's cropped and reduced in size):.

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F5.61/10secISO200EF-S 17-85mm at 70mm.

The problem is I can't see any detail in the moon, it's like a sun, please help me finding good information or advise to correct the parameters.is needed a filter?.

Thanks in advance and best wishesAlberto..

Comments (12)

Pepokun wrote:.

F5.61/10secISO200EF-S 17-85mm at 70mm.

The problem is I can't see any detail in the moon, it's like a sun,please help me finding good information or advise to correct theparameters..

Since the moon is brightly lit it needs to be shot at faster shutter speeds, usually faster than 1/250, but this is usually when the sky is dark. You may lose some detail in the sky but not much and still get a great shot..

There are many posts with moon info so you might do a search in this and other forums..

Http://forums.dpreview.com/...m=1002&message=25708495&q=moon&qf=m.

Regards,Hank.

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Comment #1

Pepokun wrote:.

F5.61/10secISO200EF-S 17-85mm at 70mm.

The surface of the moon, (from our viewpoint,) is always lit by broad daylight. Exposures should be adjusted with that in mind...

Comment #2

Hope this helps:http://www.photo96.com/blog/?p=407YongboPhoto Gallery: http://www.photo96.com/Blog: http://www.photo96.com/blog/index.php.

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Comment #3

Remember that the moon is an object being illuminated by direct sunlight and so a full moon on a clear night the "sunny 16" rule applies (exposure equivilent to f16 @ shutter speed of 1/ISO)...

Comment #4

If you are trying to get a shot like the one you posted, where the exposure of the cloud, sky and foreground are illuminated at dusk like that, but the moon is properly exposed with detail you need to understand this is impossible in a single exposure. The difference in exposure between the moon and the rest of the shot is probably on the order of 5-8 stops. Not even the mighty DR of my S5 can come close to that. The only way to get a shot like that is to lock the camera onto a tripod and take 2 exposures, one for the moon the other for everything else. You can then layer the brighter exposure on top of the other in Photoshop and with a low opacity eraser brush erase the over exposed moon revealing the detailed one from the lower layer...

Comment #5

Wow - super moon shot YJ.

Huge negative saturation - why?huge sharpening - why?quite a bright image - or is that about right on your screen?.

How different is the image on tripod legs extended?.

Just so much to learn - my moon pics with Sony H5 + 1.7TC are so much softer and less detailed - any furthe advice appreciated too!.

Dave.

*fizzix is fun!*fotons are fantastic!!*fotoH5images are flamin'amazin'!!!.

DDTuk..

Comment #6

I shoot a lot of moon photos:.

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During daylight I always use a circular polorizer, at night manual exposure is a must!.

J. D.Colorful Colorado.

Remember.always keep the box and everything that came in it!..

Comment #7

Hello Alberto,The moon is a very bright object. On your photo it is overexposed.You have to meter for the moon, not for the sky..

If you don't have a spot meter, you could find the optimum exposure by trial and error. As a starting point you could use 1/250 with f/8 at 200 ISO for a full moon..

The best time to shoot a full moon, is at moonrise one day before full moon (the sky is relatively light)..

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Regards,.

Fred Kamphueshttp://www.millhouse.nl/digitaltalk.html..

Comment #8

DO NOT SHOOT MOON IN THE DAYTIME..

To take a picture of the moon you need-.

Long lens 1000mm(35mm equivelent) about.high iso(800?) to force afaster shutter speed..

Exposure-the moon, odd as it sounds is hign noon sunlit. just like noon on earth. we are 240000 miles to moon, BUT earth or moon is 93000000 miles to sun. that determines exposure. as other replyer stated use sunny 16 rule. that is for a full moon 1/iso at f16.

Shoot a very hign shutter speed to start, take more than 1 shot at each shutter speed(3) then go down to about 1/30sec.use stong tripod..

Use cable shutter release or self timer. if self timer this will take a while, and you will have to keep adjusting moon in viewfinder.Use mirror lockup if your camera has it.Turn IS,VR,SR off, your camera is on a tripod..

DO NOT TRUST LIGHT METER IN CAMERA. it is being fooled by all the black sky. even spot meter, if available will not help, it won't go small enough to get moon only. moon is only 1/2degree wide, smaller than any spot meter.get away from city. turbulance and lights are bad news.if 1000mm or so not available, use biggest available. crop in post-processing.not as good as big lens but will work.shoot many pics, you can always delete later..

Happy moon pics. good luck.also-sunny 16 rule-i/iso is shutter speed. if iso is 100 then shutter speed is 1/100about.fstop is 16.0..

The f stop is f16. this a starting point. any lens is not at max sharpness at f16, so adjust fstop to f8 or f11, and move shutter acccordingly..

Check moonrise times in your area. you want about 3 hours after moonrise to start your pic taking. this gives the moon time to get far enough above the horizon to clear the horizontal atmosphere and turbelance..

You also need crystal clear skys. NO rpt NO haze, clouds, or humidity. humidity is noticable if you have corana around the moon, this could also be haze. in which case shoot on another night.happy moon pics..

Garysecond reply-on the subject of lenses-.

I use the bigma(sigma50-500+1.4converter). a smaller lenses will work, you just have to crop. but, if cropping heavily do not expect a lot of detail, you just won't get it. though remember any lens is multiplied by the crop factor. so your 135 becomes about 200-205mm..

I shoot at iso800 and at f8.0 end up at about200th-400th of a sec. when start taking the shot I start at 1/1000 and go down to about a 1/30. I also should three shots at each shutter speed, thus increasing the odds of getting a good one somewhere in the bunch. I expect to hit the good shots as stated at about 200th-400th..

Do not shoot if high humidity or haze or any kind of atmosspheric turbelence. it just is a waste of memory and time. I shot originally in a park in Detroit michigan on what I thought was a clear night, forget it. I actually got some good pics 200 miles north on the shore of Lake Huron. much better..

0ne thought, if available you can try putting a 2X converter on the lens, that would get to over 400mm. there are also several moon pic takers that use more than I converter. 2 2Xs or a 2X and a 1.4. it sound odd but the results are worth it. they are better than the crop heavy method..

Do not underestimate how bright a 3/4 or just under full is in terms of brightness. it equal to highnoon on a cloudless day in the summer.focus-.

Put lens on manual focus. then put it on infinity(assuming lens does not focus past infinity,some do) or manual focus..

F16.0 comes from the rule of 16. it is the starting point. if you want f8.0, as I use, then you move the shutter speed accordingly to get back to the EV. it is 1/iso for shutter speed under rule of 16. for f8.0 and iso500, for example, you move 2stops or 1/125. at iso500 the shutter speed is 1/500..

By the way, the above set of instructions work, I just got back from oscoda michigan, I live in detroit, used the same instructions, it worked..

Also, with my setup: pentax *istD, bigma50-500 at 500, 2x converter, this gives 35mm equiv of 1500mm. the moon's size is almost exactly 1/2 of the short side of the frame. in other words, you need all the telephoto power you can get...

Comment #9

DJDuk wrote:.

Wow - super moon shot YJ.

Huge negative saturation - why?huge sharpening - why?quite a bright image - or is that about right on your screen?.

I take the shot using raw format, the shot include a building at left to make a reference. When I saw the moon with a red highlights I went to the roof to take the shot..

Because I want to know what's went wrong, I opened with the defaults in photoshop's camera raw tool. The camera is in neutral mode, I prefer to modify in photoshop than in the camera..

How different is the image on tripod legs extended?.

I used a tripod, but I can't take more shots to experiment because the battery discharged, only I can took a pair of shots. I need another battery, but at this time I don't have money .

Just so much to learn - my moon pics with Sony H5 + 1.7TC are so muchsofter and less detailed - any furthe advice appreciated too!.

Dave.

*fizzix is fun!*fotons are fantastic!!*fotoH5images are flamin'amazin'!!!.

DDTuk..

Comment #10

DJDuk wrote:.

Wow - super moon shot YJ.

Huge negative saturation - why?.

Just converted it to black and white..

Huge sharpening - why?.

The original image is "soft"..

Quite a bright image - or is that about right on your screen?.

Looks normal on my screen with factory (DELL) default settings..

How different is the image on tripod legs extended?.

It's shake like crazy..

Just so much to learn - my moon pics with Sony H5 + 1.7TC are so muchsofter and less detailed - any furthe advice appreciated too!.

RAW format does help and good luck..

Dave.

*fizzix is fun!*fotons are fantastic!!*fotoH5images are flamin'amazin'!!!.

DDTuk.

YongboPhoto Gallery: http://www.photo96.com/Blog: http://www.photo96.com/blog/index.php.

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Comment #11

Pretty good advice so far - actually whether you can do it all in one frame depends on the time of day, ambient light and sky conditions. For night shots where it's totally dark, your metering won't work properly unless you have spot metering and even that sometimes fails so the rule of thumb as mentioned in other posts is sunny 16. F16 at about 1/250th usually does pretty well and you can bracket from there. Actually taking three shots using bracket is probably a good idea anyway because you can then combine them for ultimate quality..

In early evening you can sometimes get a decent grab shot. Here's one I took Thanksgiving evening - not as sharp as I would have liked but done hand-held at 1/30th second at F8 with a 40D, 70-200L F2.8 plus 1.4x Kenko Pro teleconverter (no stabilization). Unfortunately I didn't have a tripod available so just a quick snap..

Lin.

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Comment #12

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