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Help with motion blurriness for action/sports photos. Thx.
Hi. Can anyone please help recommend how to prevent motion blurriness when taking action/sports photos?.

I regard myself as a n00b to DSLR's and photography in general. The camera I used was a Nikon D50 with a 18-70mm lens (f/3.5-4.5)..

I'm typically just a point & shoot kind of guy, so I have a lot to learn about things like exposure, aperature, iso, and other camera settings & techniques..

The following 2 photos show my problem - blurriness near the subject's arm and the ball. What is recommended to get sharper pics in the future? A new lens? If so, which one/what kind? Or would I have to tweak one of the camera settings? Thanks so much in advance. Cheers..

Http://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=253575422.

Http://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=253575430..

Comments (9)

You have a few obstacles going on here....

Indoor lighting requires a faster aperture due to the lower light. In your images, you did fairly well for getting a good exposure but your shutter speed was too low to 'stop action' the player's movements..

Your image doesn't detail the EXIF info but I assume it was at ~50-mm and f/3.5 - f/4.5 which would put shutter speed in the 1/60-sec or so (purely a guess). With these circumstances and same lens, you'd have to kick up the ISO to get the shutter speeds up to 1/250 or 1/500-sec to have less motion blur. Actually, sports images like this are sometimes nice to have motion blur to illustrate the fast action of the sport..

You'd need a f/2.8 or faster lens (f/1.8?) and higher ISO to get the shutter speeds up if you want frozen player motions...Telecorder (Dave)FZee30+RD-S+OlyTC1.7XDee50+Nikon 35mm F2.0D-AF+Nikkor18-70DX+Tam70-300-macro-LD+BIGMA 50-500 EX HSM(Coming soon - Nikon 70-300 VR!)My Image Galleries.

Http://www.nikonians-images.com/...hp?cat=500&ppuser=121399&password=.

Http://Telecorder.smugmug.com/.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window..

Comment #1

I have a prime 50mm f/1.8D lens, so I'll try using that lens next time..

I'll also look into another zoom lens that is faster. My previous cameras are the P&S Canon S2IS and SD700IS...so I'm used to have a little zoom..

So although I got the 50mm prime lens b/c many people were recommending it, I realize I have to upgrade from this starter 18-70mm lens..

Can I presume that Nikon 18-200 lens would not be good for action shots as well b/c it's not fast enough?.

I'm going to try the "A" mode, change the ISO to 1600, white balance from auto to fluorescent, and fiddle with the different range of f/3.5 - f/22..

I have a lot to learn...and need more practice. Thanks to DPR for the help. You guys are the best...

Comment #2

Basketball sports.

Good how to post.

Http://forums.dpreview.com/...forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=26576849.

Bill,Jr'I kind of like the Earth, it's where I keep all my Stuff.'Website; http://www.pbase.com/wboth125 Lake Wylie, SC..

Comment #3

Hsudo wrote:.

I have a prime 50mm f/1.8D lens, so I'll try using that lens next time..

That may require you to get really close?.

I'll also look into another zoom lens that is faster. My previouscameras are the P&S Canon S2IS and SD700IS...so I'm used to have alittle zoom..

So although I got the 50mm prime lens b/c many people wererecommending it, I realize I have to upgrade from this starter18-70mm lens..

Can I presume that Nikon 18-200 lens would not be good for actionshots as well b/c it's not fast enough?.

Yes!.

I'm going to try the "A" mode, change the ISO to 1600, white balancefrom auto to fluorescent, and fiddle with the different range off/3.5 - f/22..

1. Those are NOT flourescent lights up there. They appear to be Mercury vapor lamps. Stock with Auto WB..

2. Forget anything even close to f/22..

3. You might try something like the Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 or the Tokina 50-135 f/2.8 or even one of the many 70-200 f/2.8 lenses. If you can forego zoom, then one of the fast 85mm Nikkor primes might be good (they come in f/1.4, f/1.8, and f/2.0 flavors)..

Charlie DavisNikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D300HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..

Comment #4

Hsudo wrote:.

I have a prime 50mm f/1.8D lens, so I'll try using that lens next time..

Definitely worth trying..

I'm going to try the "A" mode, change the ISO to 1600, white balancefrom auto to fluorescent, and fiddle with the different range off/3.5 - f/22..

O.K. but don't fiddle with the aperture. Set it wide open at f/3.5. In the case of the 50mm 1.8, use the f/1.8 setting..

Do you know what ISO setting was used for these example shots? If it was very low, you may even find at ISO 1600 that f/2.8 would be acceptable. There would be no point in using aperture settings such as f/8 or f/11 and beyond, that would only make the blur worse by forcing the use of a slower shutter speed.Regards,Peter..

Comment #5

Thanks again for all the helpful info..

Another n00b question. So f2.8 lenses would be worthwhile to get? I don't know anything about lenses, but is there much difference between 2.8 and 3.5 ? The reason I ask is b/c someone else suggested possibly f/2.1 ... I'll have to look into how expensive they are...but would a zoom lens at f/2.1 be worthwhile as an all-purpose lens?.

A long time ago, I thought about that 18-200 VR lens, but maybe I'd be better off with a faster lens..

I tried using my Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens...but the photo wasn't as sharp as I would have liked. Could it be that it didn't focus properly? Or should I have fiddled with the ISO or something to do with aperture/shutter?.

This is the photo I'm referring to. - http://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=254770204.

Btw... I see other people embed photos into their messages...how can that be done? is that done by html code like <a href= or <img= or something else?.

Thanks. You guys are the best for helping dumb n00bs like me. Cheers!..

Comment #6

Hsudo wrote:.

I tried using my Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens...but the photo wasn't assharp as I would have liked. Could it be that it didn't focusproperly? Or should I have fiddled with the ISO or something to dowith aperture/shutter?.

This is the photo I'm referring to. -http://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=254770204.

Btw... I see other people embed photos into their messages...how canthat be done? is that done by html code like <a href= or <img= orsomething else?.

The general answer is to right-click the actual image and get the URL of the picture like this:http://photo.ringo.com/253/253418338RL576773704.jpg.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Larger version:http://photo.ringo.com/253/253418338O576773704.jpg.

To include the image URL without actually embedding the picture, add a semicolon ; useful for very large pictures..

In your example is seems the focus was incorrect. The net behind the people is very sharp, behind that the bricks are again blurred. That shows the shallow depth of field at wide lens aperture settings..

Ideally you would focus on the people's faces, but autofocus may choose to focus on something it finds more contrasty between the people. In this example the dark shirt with white text would have been a good focus point, you may need to aim the camera, focus, then re-frame the image before releasing the shutter.Regards,Peter..

Comment #7

Yes, Peter sees what I see...that the camera appears to have focused on the net. I think that the net is close behind the people, but it may be farther than it appears. A quick run through Barnack shows that 50mm, f3.5, 20 ft away, would give 7 ft DOF. SO...perhaps this is NOT the answer?.

But his suggestion to use spot focus and the black/white T-shirt is good advice..

Charlie DavisNikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D300HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..

Comment #8

The simple answer is your shutter speed is too low. A higher shutter speed will freeze the action. You will have to use S, set a suitable shutter speed and allow the camera to select the aperture. If light is very low and the camera selects a wide open aperture on your lens and the exposure will still be too dark, you increase ISO. If you have to increase ISO to a level that is unacceptable to you to get a bright enough exposure you will have to use a faster lens...

Comment #9

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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