HDR pictures
I saw this HDR pictures and I was awed and very pleased with the results..

Here are some samples: and

I am sort of beginning my own digital photo life, I'm buying a camera in a few days, but I always take either my father's or sister's camera when in need..

Anyway, the question is:.

My father's camera has RAW. I understand RAW format is what the sensor captured in a binary way, but doesn't exposure varies with the lens aperture as well? Which scenario will give the best results?.

1 - A single shot of the subject in RAW, saving different pictures with different exposures; or.

2 - Different shots (either RAW or JPEG) of the subject with the different exposures?..

Comments (5)

You are asking the wrong question. hdr should only be used when the scene's dynamic range exceeds the sensor. and there can be NO MOVEMENT in the scene, if there is it will show as blur inthe final shot. the best results from a dslr are obtained when the camera is adjusted to work properly for the user, you. and the user has enough photographis knowledge and technique tom make use of the camera's abilities. there is a learning curve to using a dslr..

Finally I wrote the following a while back. it may answer some of your questions about hdr..

To do hdr-.

If you put camera into full auto matrix metering, take first shot note fstop and shutter speed. put camera into full manual, see if camera still has the matrix fstop and shutter speed. if yes, then using shutter speed go up 2-4 shutter speeds 1 fstop worth of shutter speed at a time. the back to matrix shutter speed and go down same number of shutter speeds.this is on a tripod with cable release..

No, you should not use 1 raw shot and convert 1 stop up and down, because their is not enough dynamic range in the 1 raw shot. dynamic range is why we are doing this, hdr is trying to get all it can..

The group of shots can be raw or jpeg. if jpeg they can be used as is. if raw remember that you HAVE to batch process all 5-9 shots. this is because the pp has to be all the same on every pic. you cannot, for example make any attempt to get the shadow details of the group of raw pics, because that would require different amounts of pp, and you cannot do that with hdr. the pp for all shots has to be identical..

For me I just shoot them in jpeg and use them from the camera, that way they are all identical because the camera jpeg settings are the same for every shot. I also put my hand streched in front of the lens and take a check shot and when done take a ending shot with hand. this tells me where the hdr group is on my memory card when I transfer to the pc..

The only important item is to bracket using shutter speeds only. if fstops are used it changes dof between shots. and shoot enough shots, 5-9 is the optimum. the only other thought is to shoot a scene that deserves the the hdr technique, too many people are shooting hdr because it is new or different or whatever. many people are using hdr software on scenes that do not have enough dynamic range; they end up with images that have been enhanced by hdr software, they are not hdr images. the dynamic range was not in the scene to begin with.

This can be checked with a spotmeter on different areas. NOTE: use of auto bracketing on a camera may not work unless you know the bracketing is using the shutter speeds to bracket. in any event, you really need 5-9 shots for hdr; this is more than the auto bracket fcn on almost all cameras. and the bracketing has to be both sides of the middle shot. make you use enough brackets to cover the previously checked dynamic range.

And the scene should have no movement, if so the item will blur in the hdr image..

Do not adjust the focus. set the focus on infinity or use a hyperfocalsetup for focus..

Do not adjust the white balance for individual shots. go with awb or 1 setting and do not change it..

Remember, hdr was created and meant for scene that have a dynamic range that exceeds the dynamic range of the camera sensor, about 5-6stops. hdr with the required software allows the user to capture a scen that has very high dynamic range...

Comment #1

My father's camera is an Oly C-8080, and I'm planing on an Oly SP-560. So both would be DSLR-Like. Do you think these cameras will do the job, given I would have a proper scene?.

So for spoting the dynamic range I could set the camera to aperture priority and check if I get different speeds among the middle-scene. Would this work?.

So the *thing* is: this is a technic that will require great learning. The first learning spot would be detecting the scene... Shooting is secondary. .

Thank you for the clarification on the subject...

Comment #2

First find a scene that has the dynamic range to make hdr worthwhile. then shoot it. finding a scene is harder than you think. you are looking for a, scene that probably has a 10fstop range or more..

A LOT of people are shooting ordinary scenes then processing with hdr software. the result is a hdr effect usually with surealistic colors.if you like that fine; but it is not a true hdr image..

Any camera that has a manual mode would work. leave the camera in matrix(average) metering and take a note of the shutter speed and fstop, switch to manual use those same settings..

For spormetering a scene using a digicam simply zoom to max and aim the camera at the observed light and dark areas. note the readings, if in aperature priority then only the shutter speed would change. in any event note the extremes they is your dynamic range. make ure that you are not at ht end of your auto shutter speeds..

If doing a true hdr image the more care you put into the shots the more the end results will show that. they can be no movement by you or anything in the scene..

Below is an hdr image made from 9 shots 1 fstop apart. it has an 11 stop dynamic range. the software used was Dynamic-Photo HDR. I had been using cs2 but I like Dynamic-Photo HDR better..

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Comment #3

Both cameras you listed are capable of doing exposure bracketing, which is the easy way to capture the images with different exposure levels in a relatively quick manor. This will help you minimize movement in the scene between frames..

You can get decent HDR images using jpgs, exposure bracketing, and a good piece of software to combine the images into one. I'm using Photomatix from HDRSoft,, and am happy with the results for now. Check out their website and you can learn more about HDR..

Nothing says that you can't start playing with HDR using the skills you have now and learn how to better apply it as you learn more about finding the "right" situations where HDR actually recreates the photo as you saw it in real-life..

Good luck..

Here are some HDR images that I've done with my Pentax K100D (all handheld using -2/0/+2 exposure three image auto-bracketing):.

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Comment #4

If you want to create differently exposed jpgs from 1 raw file, you would better be sure that the information of the scene photographed can be handled by that camera's dynamic range..

I have no problem shooting one raw with my fuji s5 and then exposing it differently and then composing the tiffs resulted in photomatix for hdr. I know the fuji can handle that. my former s3 could too, but i'm not sure you can do this safely with any other dSLR. see, the fuji cheats a little by having 2 photosites for each pixel, thus being able to deal with highlight are a few of them, all from one raw (grain, if any, is due to photomatix):.

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Hdr does not work very well with skintones, at least photomatix does not:.

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Sure, if you've got no moving objects in the frame, then you can safely use a tripod and take differently exposed shots of the same frame..


Comment #5

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.


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