The Fuji Film s9100 has a max of 1/4000 but so do most other ultrazooms like the Panasonic FZ-50 and Sony DSC-H9.Fuji Film S9100..
Hi.. I was just wondering which P&S has a high shutter speed? I amlooking for an ultrazoom P&S and I really want to have a fastshutter speed.. but I don't think I am ready to purchase a DSLRbecause they do look really complicated...
You may need to look a bit deeper before emphasizing the importance of fast shutter speed. In order to actually use the fastest speeds, you will need plenty of light - usually outdoors in good daylight. And you may also need to increase the ISO setting to something like 800 or 1600, depending on the light available. Of course increasing the ISO has disadvantages, such as noise and reduced image quality. There are often compromises and trade-offs to be made in photography. Just looking at the specifications of a particular camera will not tell the whole story.
And then you discover, not just the limitations of a particular camera, but of a whole class of cameras of similar type..
What I'm really saying is I don't think you should attach too much importance to high shutter speed. But if you are intending to make use of this feature, then first look for the following:.
1. wide maximum aperture - ideally something like f/2.8. Bear in mind that with most cameras, as the lens is zoomed, the widest available aperture is reduced.2. good performance at high iso settings.Get these two features right, and high shutter speeds will follow.Regards,Peter..
Many mid and upper range models have max speeds of 1/2000 - have a look in the specs to see..
However it is going to be rare you will have enough light to be up against this limit. With relatively poor high iso performance, and average max apertures of around f4, you are much more likely to need image stabilisation at low shutter speeds, then high shutter speeds...
Here are some ways to stop motion blur:1/60s - good enough to freeze motion for someone posing for yu1/125s - for walking subjects1/200s - for active kids1/400s - minimum for sport, will get some blurry hands and balls1/800s - best for sport and bird in flight1/8000s - freezes the wing of a humming bird..
To stop camera blur caused by hand shake, use the inverse focal length rule. For example, need 1/50s for 50mm, and 1/200s for 200mm..
Well then why don't we always use 1/8000s and freeze everything? Because chances are you'll get a very dark photo. Faster shutters cut down the light that reaches the sensor. To have a properly bright photo, must increase lens aperture size (FStop) and sensor sensitivity (ISO)..
The problem for most point & shoot isn't the slow maximum shutter speed. It's because the sensor produces very poor image quality (grainny) when using high ISO. The lens is also stuck on the camera, and there's no way to switch out to a new lens with larger max aperture...
Here are some ways to stop motion blur:1/400s - minimum for sport, will get some blurry hands and balls.
Sorry...had to laugh at reading that. I wonder if they follow that guideline in the adult industry as well...
1/8000s - freezes the wing of a humming bird..
Not really. At 50 beats per second, you need a shutterspeed much faster than 1/8000 to freeze the wings. Basically, you need flash in order freeze the wings..
Other than that, I agree with everything else you wrote...