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DSLR camera help for Sports/Family pictures
We are thinking of moving up in the digital world, we currently have aCanon S1 IS.We are looking at the Nikon D40x -# Nikon - 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera D40x# Nikon - 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens.

And the.

Sony Alpha 100 -# Sony - Alpha 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera DSLR-A100K# Sony - 75-300mm f/4.5-5.6 Super-Telephoto Zoom Lens.

We would mainly be using this camera for travel photos, family pictures and sportingevents such as indoor ice hockey and baseball pictures?Which would you recommend or are there other options. We are looking attrying to stay at about $1000.Thanks for the help..

Jerry...

Comments (8)

I don't know either the nikon or the sony-so you may wonder what I can offer:-).

You are covering a wide range of photography and you'll need a dslr to cover it-plus a range of lenses that will blow that budget if you want to do it decently. It's easy to think of the telephoto range and not think about the aperture when you're starting. Basically to do hockey you'll need a responsive camera with a very fast telephoto to stop the action and work indoors-something like a 135 f2. The slower zooms will not work for hockey-there just isn't enough light. A 135 F2 is expensive..

For kids sports a lot depends on the size of the kids-and their fields. For baseball you would likely want at least a 300mm lens, but for little kids you could get away with a shorter focal length-maybe a 200mm. In the canon world a 70-200f4 would work for small kids, and then you'd need something longer for bigger fields..

So you could give up on tight hocky shots and work on the other items for now, and add a fast hockey lens later if it was still important..

Jerry H. wrote:.

We are thinking of moving up in the digital world, we currently have aCanon S1 IS.We are looking at the Nikon D40x -# Nikon - 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera D40x# Nikon - 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens.

And the.

Sony Alpha 100 -# Sony - Alpha 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera DSLR-A100K# Sony - 75-300mm f/4.5-5.6 Super-Telephoto Zoom Lens.

We would mainly be using this camera for travel photos, familypictures and sportingevents such as indoor ice hockey and baseball pictures?Which would you recommend or are there other options. We are looking attrying to stay at about $1000.Thanks for the help..

Jerry...

Comment #1

Your alternatives are looking quite reasonable (according to your bugdet)..

I assume, that you are planing to buy one of the bodies including their standard kit lens, don't you? Otherwise you will miss the main focal range btw 17/18-50/55mm..

For the tele lenses: if possible, take lenses with image stabilisation. Otherwise you will need a monopod or tripod to get sharp pic's at the long end. The longest exposures hand holdable are 1/300 sec at 200mm and 1/450 sec at 300mm. Otherwise you will get blurred pic's because of your own motions (breathing, hand shaking)..

There is a Nikkor 55-200mm with the VR (vibration reduction) option available, which makes 1/75 sec handheld possible. It will fit into your budget.Unfortunately I don't know any Sony or third party lens with such a feature..

Keep in mind, that indoor situations are darker than outside. You will have to push your cam to their ISO limits to get short exposures to avoid motion blur of your moving kids. But high ISO values will make your pic's more noisier (more pixel grain). The Sony A100 is known to be noisier than the Nikon D40(x) at high ISO values..

Zoom tele lenses with a constant large aperture of 2,8 are the preferred ones for indoor photography. But they are outside your budget..

Regards, RogRabb..

Comment #2

Sorry, as a Nikon user I did forget, that the Sony A100 has an in-cam image stabilizer. So one won't need lenses with built-in VR with this cam.Therefore more reach (-300mm) is an advantage for your Sony choice..

Good luck! RogRabb..

Comment #3

IS/VR only helps with blur due to your own hand and arm motion..

It won't do a thing to stop the movement of the subject...

Comment #4

Indoor sports needs max aperture of f/1.8 or f/1.4 really - so the zooms you mention won't do it. Even with the ISO dialled right up to 1600+ you won't achieve the required shutter speed of 1/500th or faster to freeze sports motion for hockey if the widest lens aperture is say f/5.6 at full zoom. It can't be done sadly - the shots will be blurred, dark, or both..

The baseball in good light they may be able to handle perhaps, though 200mm is a bit short for that I would think..

VR won't do anything for subject motion as others have pointed out..

They're fine for normal photography, though 55mm and 75mm are a little long. If you get the Nikon (which I'd prefer over the Sony) I'd combine the 55-200VR with something wider up to 55mm..

Alex..

Comment #5

Alex Leach wrote:.

Indoor sports needs max aperture of f/1.8 or f/1.4 really.

That's optimal for some indoor sports (volleyball, basketball, etc), but not at a rink. You need something in the range of 100 to 200mm. You can't get a 200mm f/1.4, and the only 200/1.8 is quite expensive..

A 70-200mm f/2.8 zoom is just about right for rinks. Fortunately the ice reflects the light, so even with the same lighting as a typical school gym you get a brighter overall scene..

So the zooms you mention won't do it..

But I completely agree here, for any indoor sports in non-pro venues..

Even with the ISO dialled right up to1600+ you won't achieve the required shutter speed of 1/500th orfaster to freeze sports motion for hockey.

I'd suggest that 1/500 is nice, but 1/250 is usually fast enough. But sometimes with f/2.8 and max ISO you won't even get that. If if you get into this situation, you've got to do what you've got to do. Shoot highest ISO, f/2.8, 1/250. It'll be dark, because it is underexposed. That's fine, you can overexpose it later on the computer to compensate.



Seen in a fortune cookie:Fear is the darkroom where negatives are developed..

Comment #6

Nickleback wrote:.

.......

I'd suggest that 1/500 is nice, but 1/250 is usually fast enough.But sometimes with f/2.8 and max ISO you won't even get that. If ifyou get into this situation, you've got to do what you've got to do.Shoot highest ISO, f/2.8, 1/250. It'll be dark, because it isunderexposed. That's fine, you can overexpose it later on thecomputer to compensate. You might not like the noise, but a noisyshot is better than no shot at all..

Agreed..

And according to Jerry's budget there might be the Sigma 50-150mm f2,8 HSM affordable together with the Nikon D40x. It will be a bit more than 1.000$, but worth a look..

The lack of an image stabilizer won't count much, because the longest exposure freehand holdable at 150mm without shaking blur fits together with the needed exposure of 1/250 for fast moving subjects..

Regards, RogRabb..

Comment #7

For everyday/outdoor shots Sony 18-70mm and 70-300mm will be decent..

Thought, main challenge will be light falloff at 70mm, 200mm or 300mm telephoto end. Since f/5.6 represents very strong loss of light. ISO 800-1600 will help somehow, but detail will not be as good as at ISO 400....

I recommend you to ebay Minolta 50mm f/1.7, Minolta 28mm f/2.8 for indoor shots..

When you will get additional $$$ for indoor basketball or hokey - add Minolta 85mm f/1.4 AF..

Similar Nikkor lenses will not auto focus on D40. Need D70 or D80. Nikkor gurus, correct me, please, if I'm not right..

Http://www.stan-pustylnik.smugmug.com..

Comment #8

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