This is a very specialised subject. I was involved with it once many years ago when producing an instruction manual where the action of very small parts had to be shown. A drawing would have been better, imo..
In a nutshell, go and look for a book on it..
Or, start with the lens zoomed to 135 and as small an aperture as you can get (high f number) and use a tripod and cable release. (If no tripod or cable release, jam the camera hard against something and use the delayed action to fire the shutter.) You'll need to do this because the lighting must be soft and that means slow shutter speeds. Or a lot of expensive lights. (Never the pop-up flash!).
I hope this gives you somewhere to start from. The problems will be lighting as models magnify harshness & the shadows are wrong (unless you can use one light at the scale distance the sun is...) and DoF as models are measured in inches and with macro DoF is in microns. So don't use macro but as long a focal length as you can and a small aperture. Which will affect the FoV but you'll have to experiment..
I'd use floodlights and reflectors, though a light tent or variant thereof to provide either a blue background or appropriate background is necessary..
An extention tube or maybe a couple of them will allow the lenses that you own to focus much closer (which is the usual problem). A macro lens is OK for some close ups but the perspective is usually better with the extention tube on a mild wide to telephoto lens..
High f#s will result in slow shutter speeds so a good flexible tripod. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/...en_Manfrotto__190XPROB_Tripod_Legs_Black_.html This one allows the center post to go horizontal so that the camera can be swung into the diorama with ease..
And software that allows several different focus points to be merged into one picture for extended depth of field will be very handy. Google Helicon Focus or Photo Acute Studio..
Last a good book on Macro Photography though I don't have one to suggest....my learning has been by trial and error.A member of the rabble in good standing..
Thank you guys. This is a great start. Keep this info coming. Never knew Macro would be a choice that is less favorable then a good wide angle..
Lets here more. Examples would be cool too. Dusty..
The US modelling magazine 'Fine Scale Modeler' did an article on this 6-8 months ago. Have a look on their website and order a back issue. Actually, upon browsing further, I found this....
You won't even need to buy the mag - just download the PDF, read and learn..
Another place that might be work a look is....
Don't know for sure, but there's all sorts of things there. Browse around, see what you can find..
Everyone, everywhere, has to do everything for a first time. There is no shame in failure, only in failure to try...
Wide angle isn't so usefull for models as they take in a lot of background and the last thing you want is a monster out of scale whatever in the edges of the picture or over the top of the model. So telephoto takes a narrow view and cuts out back ground clutter. Also you then can get more light on a smaller space..
Thanks Rob.. I will be reading it very soon..
David, Thanks for clarifying. There are a few instances where I want to show the entire display but I think doing a panorama would look nicer then doing a single wide angle shot. Anyway, thanks again.Dusty..
High f#s will result in slow shutter speeds so a good flexibletripod..
Hmmm... I would have suggested a "rigid" tripod. .
Charlie DavisNikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D300HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..