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Digital SLR info needed
Hello,.

I am a complete newbie to the DSLR world but have come to the conclusion that this is the type of camera I need to get the shots I want. My kids are into sports and I want a camera that I can take picture after picture and the camera will respond when I push the button. I don't want to have to wait 1 or 2 seconds between shots before I can take another picture. With that said, I think I have decided on either the Nikon D40, D40x, or D80. This is where I'm confused as to what to buy. I've been reading about the lenses, image stabilization, auto focus, etc., and it has made me realize I need to invistigate these models some more before I just run out and buy one.

Will each of these cameras do that for me?.

Sorry if this is a bit vague but I'm not really sure what I'm asking, just looking for information on the lenses and image stabilization for each of these models and which would be right for me. Both of my kids ride motocross so I'm taking pictures of a fast moving sport..

Thanks in advance...

Comments (14)

Turtletrax wrote:.

Hello,I am a complete newbie to the DSLR world but have come to theconclusion that this is the type of camera I need to get the shots Iwant. My kids are into sports and I want a camera that I can takepicture after picture and the camera will respond when I push thebutton. I don't want to have to wait 1 or 2 seconds between shotsbefore I can take another picture. With that said, I think I havedecided on either the Nikon D40, D40x, or D80. This is where I'mconfused as to what to buy. I've been reading about the lenses,image stabilization, auto focus, etc., and it has made me realize Ineed to invistigate these models some more before I just run out andbuy one.

Will each of these cameras do that for me?.

Sorry if this is a bit vague but I'm not really sure what I'm asking,just looking for information on the lenses and image stabilizationfor each of these models and which would be right for me. Both of mykids ride motocross so I'm taking pictures of a fast moving sport..

Thanks in advance..

None of the Nikons or Canons have stablization in the body. If you want stablization you have to purchase a stablized lens which can add weight and cost. Also not all lens choices are available in stablized versions..

In the Nikon D40 and D40x Nikon took the lens focus motor out of the camera so only lenses with an AF motor in them will autofocus. There are still Nikon and 3rd party lenses selling that need the AF motor if you want AF.. so just be aware of this when buying lenses..

This site will tell you which lens lines work with which nikon systemshttp://www.nikonians.org/nikon/slr-lens.html.

The d40/d40x is an entry level camera that can take great images but has some features deleted that may or may not matter to you. This might come down to why you even included the D80 on the list..

One nice feature of the D40 is the 6MP sensor which often will take cleaner images with less noise and at higher ISO (so you can use faster shutter speeds) 6MP is more than enough to print sharp images upto 11x14..

You mentioned stablization... a couple times. Did you look at the Sony system or just compare the Canon and Nikons?.

The Sony A700 costs a bit more than the D80 from reputable dealers, but has a pretty easy lens system to figure out. All AF Minolta lenses on the used market work, all current or recent 3rd party AF lenses for Minolta/Sony work.. of course the Sony lenses work..

The nice thing is even the used lenses are stablized because Sony (like Olympus and Pentax) stablize the sensor in the body so you buy that once with the camera and all your lenses from budget priced to Pro level are stablized..

Ken - Happy A700 Ownerhttp://www.cascadephotoworks.com..

Comment #1

For Motocross you need fast lenses. VR (vibration reduction) will not help in fast moving subject freezing. For the Nikon system you have choices of fast primes or very expensive fast zoom lenses..

The D40/D40x will not auto focus on any fast Nikon primes..

D80 would be my choice. Check out the D300 as well if it is in the budgetMenace about taking pictures of anything and anybody.

Erwin..

Comment #2

Turtletrax wrote:.

Hello,I am a complete newbie to the DSLR world but have come to theconclusion that this is the type of camera I need to get the shots Iwant. My kids are into sports and I want a camera that I can takepicture after picture and the camera will respond when I push thebutton..

Based on what you stated that you want to do with the camera; you will want, and perhaps need, a camera with image stablilization, either in lens or in body. This is partly driven by whether the sports you shoot are at night or during the day. If you have night games then in a perfect world you have a very fast lens AND image stabilization..

Now the big question. What's your budget?? If you are looking at cameras under $1K then I would not buy any of the above because you will have to buy in lens IS and that will blow your budget. Look at Pentax or Oly. I'll post an image that I took at the US Open with the Oly 510 and the kit lens. With a faster, longer lens the Oly can really perform. The Nikon and Canon will generally perform better in low light however you will have to pay a premium for image stabilization, and the camera..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Olympus E-500, Olympus E-510..

Comment #3

Thanks to both of you for the lense information. I was wondering if the D40 was going to be adequate for motocross shots or not. The 300 isnt really in my budget but the 80 is so I will look at it. Does the 80 allow live view? (I think thats what it's called....where I can use the screen to take the picture rather than the view finder?). I know, I've been ruined by doing this with my little point and shoot cameras but I do like it..

Thanks again...

Comment #4

Turtletrax wrote:.

Thanks to both of you for the lense information. I was wondering ifthe D40 was going to be adequate for motocross shots or not. The 300isnt really in my budget but the 80 is so I will look at it. Doesthe 80 allow live view? (I think thats what it's called....where I canuse the screen to take the picture rather than the view finder?). Iknow, I've been ruined by doing this with my little point and shootcameras but I do like it..

Thanks again..

Live view on a DSLR is not for action shots in current applications. On the canon 40D you can't do servo AF with it, only a a quick pause of the live view to do a single AF reading..

On D300 it doesn't use the great 51 AF sensor system that is good for tracking action.. it uses a slower less accurate contrast on image system to focus..

Part of what makes the DLSR great is the LIVE image in the optical Viewfinder and the high precision focus sensors neither of which can run while the shutter is open for live view from the sensor..

Live view liike on the Canon 40D is more of use for Macro, tripod, and studio work..

There is no Live view on the D40/D40x or D80.Ken - Happy A700 Ownerhttp://www.cascadephotoworks.com..

Comment #5

I've really only looked at the Nikon because I work with some guys who swear by them and that is what they have recommended to me..

I will be doing at least 95% of my shots during the day ar the race track, or inside. My budget is right around $1000, but thats not to say I wont spend $1500 if thats what I need to do. I'm really not interested in spending more than that however..

I guess if there is another model or brand that will work better for me than I am open to suggestions. Like I said the Nikon was suggested so thats why I've been looking at it..

Thanks for all your feedback. I'm still confused, but hopefully all of this will help me get the camera I really need...

Comment #6

Turtletrax wrote:.

I've really only looked at the Nikon because I work with some guyswho swear by them and that is what they have recommended to me..

I will be doing at least 95% of my shots during the day ar the racetrack, or inside. My budget is right around $1000, but thats not tosay I wont spend $1500 if thats what I need to do. I'm really notinterested in spending more than that however..

I guess if there is another model or brand that will work better forme than I am open to suggestions. Like I said the Nikon wassuggested so thats why I've been looking at it..

Thanks for all your feedback. I'm still confused, but hopefully allof this will help me get the camera I really need..

Lets say right now you are willing to also look at Canon.. You can get a brand new Canon 30D from B&H for $800. That's a really great camera that Last spring was usually $1200 or more.. and then you can add a nice fast Canon lens..

I would take the 30D over anything in this price range.. because it really is a high end camera on sale because the 40D came out.. but still will give you great shots and a good lens collection. And since none of the Nikons in your price range are runing CMOS it will have better high ISO performand so you can shoot higher shutter speeds when needed..

I say this as a Happy enthusiastic A700 owner.. that also likes the Nikon D300.. IE in each price range there is a best deal. The 30D was released only about 18 months ago so is not an old design..Ken - Happy A700 Ownerhttp://www.cascadephotoworks.com..

Comment #7

1) Any DSLR can shoot sports. You need a decent telephoto lens, which can be expensive. The specifics of what you need depend on what quality you need from your result and what conditions you shoot in. Note that good sports lenses are expensive and tend to weight a significant amount..

2) IS will not help with sports. You need a good AF system and a fast focusing lens ( see (1) ). A monopod is the usual way to help steady a camera for sports shots. IS won't help because all it does is let you use a longer exposure time, which is counter-productive in sports..

3) Sports photographers like to be able to fire off multiple continuous exposures. The entry level DSLRs all have relatively sedate continuous speeds, but, of course, that speed costs a lot. The D80 is a good compromise between cost and speed..

4) Pick a DSLR based on how it feels in your hands to use. How it works with you is the dominating factor in how good your photography with it can become..

5) Technique is a significant issue, and if you don't know technique look for a good book on sports and action photography..

StephenG.

Pentax K100DFuji S5200Fuji E900PCLinuxOS..

Comment #8

What are the closest and farthest distances you think you'll shoot at? That can help us narrow down lens choices, and from there, cameras...

Comment #9

I'd say the closest would be 5 feet and the furthest would be around 100 feet. Most of the pictures will be outside shots on the race track, with very few inside shots on a track. Thanks!..

Comment #10

Sjgcit wrote:.

1) Any DSLR can shoot sports. You need a decent telephoto lens,which can be expensive. The specifics of what you need depend onwhat quality you need from your result and what conditions you shootin. Note that good sports lenses are expensive and tend to weight asignificant amount..

I agree..

2) IS will not help with sports. You need a good AF system and afast focusing lens ( see (1) ). A monopod is the usual way to helpsteady a camera for sports shots. IS won't help because all it doesis let you use a longer exposure time, which is counter-productive insports..

I disagree with you on this one. Particularly since the poster said that he would be shooting at the track. IS with pan would really help in this area with a long heavy lens..

3) Sports photographers like to be able to fire off multiplecontinuous exposures. The entry level DSLRs all have relativelysedate continuous speeds, but, of course, that speed costs a lot.The D80 is a good compromise between cost and speed..

I agree but he didn't say that he was doing pro sports shots. For shooting your kids 3 FPS will do and 5 FPS is more than fine..

4) Pick a DSLR based on how it feels in your hands to use. How itworks with you is the dominating factor in how good your photographywith it can become..

Could not agree more. Camera's are alot like wives. Pick the one you like and learn to live with it..

5) Technique is a significant issue, and if you don't know techniquelook for a good book on sports and action photography..

And takes lots of shots. Electrons are cheap and you can through away a whole lot of digital images and keep the good ones..

MaddogOlympus E-500, Olympus E-510..

Comment #11

2) IS will not help with sports. You need a good AF system and afast focusing lens ( see (1) ). A monopod is the usual way to helpsteady a camera for sports shots. IS won't help because all it doesis let you use a longer exposure time, which is counter-productive insports..

I disagree with you on this one. Particularly since the poster saidthat he would be shooting at the track. IS with pan would reallyhelp in this area with a long heavy lens..

Well we'll have to agree to disagree here,  .

My objection to this is that it only works if the IS system does not get confused by the panning action. I would not accept that as a general rule and I'm limited to give advice in general terms..

StephenG.

Pentax K100DFuji S5200Fuji E900PCLinuxOS..

Comment #12

Turtletrax wrote:.

I'd say the closest would be 5 feet and the furthest would be around100 feet. Most of the pictures will be outside shots on the racetrack, with very few inside shots on a track. Thanks!.

Then, I'd get the D40 or D40x with the 18-200VR. An expensive lens, but it's great in good light (to allow smaller apertures). It has the range to go from close shots to moderately distant. No need to change lenses! You could save quite a few bucks with the 18-55 and 55-200VR, but the 18-200 is still in your budget range...

Comment #13

Thank you! The lens which does it all for me is what I'm really interested in so I wont have to be changing lenses all the time during the race..

Thanks to you all for the tips!..

Comment #14

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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