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converters on 5700
I am considering buying a nikon 5700. As I intend to use the camera for bird photograpy I look for a 4 or 5 times converter to give me a range of over 1000 zoom in 35 mm terms. Is there anyone with any experience in this area and if so do you have any sample shots for me. From Belgium I look forward to your reply..

Comments (7)

As far as I know, 5700 is not very friendly for birders, check here http://www.digiscoped.com/DigiscopingInfo.html. The best converter you can get maybe EagleEye OpticZoom 5x(http://www.eagleeyeuk.com), but you won't get what you expected on 5700. If you are only interested in birds, then CP4500 + a decent spotting scope will be a much better setup. I see people stacking Nikon TC-E15ED 1.5x with Olympus TCON-17 1.7x on 5700, and got good result, but that only give you 714mm zoom. I will stack one more Raynox DCR1540 1.54x in between in a few days when TCON-17 arrives, that will give me over 1000 mm, I will let you know the result if I get that done, but I don't expect that will produce superior image...

Comment #1

Sapro, Sorry I am a bit late on my reaction. However thank you and I will have a look at the website. As I am a starter I wonder why one cannot use a spotting scope on the 5700. I have seen some good results of the 4500 with a spotting scope. I look forward hearing from you when you have tested your new configuration with the TCON-17 bye for now..

Comment #2

George, I forgot about this forum until today. I think 5700 still can be used with a spotting scope, but it needs a good one (and of course expensive one). 4500 has smaller lense, so some cheap scope or converters, like EagleEye or Kenko can produce a nice result. My experiment with 3 tele converters failed. The camera just can't focus. But with two converters, Nikon TC-E15ED + Oly TCON-17, the result is acceptable. This gives 714mm equivalent...

Comment #3

Hi I've been using a 8x CrystalView Sharpshooter monocular on a Coolpix 995 for wildlife and other photography which gives a 300-1200mm 35mm equivalent lens on the 4x zoom of the 995. These are available from www.ckcpower.com along with adapters to fit many cameras. They also have adapters to fit spotting scopes. Monoculars need to be set up on a tripod and are relatively slow to adjust so they are not suitable for quick shots, but they do a good job - see attached photo of the Sydney Harbour bridge and opera house at night. This is an 8 second exposure. A spotting scope is likely to deliver much better image quality but far less portable.

Attachments:.

DSCN0109.JPG..

Comment #4

Hi Mark, I am slowly getting convinced that the 4500 is abetter option for bird photography. As my english is my 2nd language I sometimes get confused about terminology used. What is actually the difference between a spotting scope and a monocular?.

Thank you..

Comment #5

A monocular (mono = one) is one side of a binocular (bi = two) -redundantly called a pair of binoculars - it should be a pair of monoculars so it is relatively short - 10 to 20 cm long and up to 35 mm in diameter weighing up to 250 gramsA spotting scope (a form of telescope) is much larger - check a Nikon or any optical manufacturer web site to see the difference. The advantage of a spotting scope is that the objective lens is much larger so letting more light into the system (faster shutter speed/ smaller f stop). The larger lenses also may lower or remove any vignetting (vignetting is where you get a black ring around the edge of the photo. This generally only shows up when you are using the lens at the wideangle end of the zoom range. To see the effect put a short tube (lens hood) over the end of a lens. As the tube is made longer you eventually start to record part of the inside of the tube in the photo.

The benefit of the 995 and 4500 is that they have the 28mm thread at the front of the lens and so do not need adapters to fit most Nikon accessory lenses. The monocular I mentioned comes with an adapter. Another benefit is that the zoom mechanism is encased and the lens does not protrude out of the camera body - I have destroyed a camera by squashing the protuding lens between myself and a wall in a crowd. I would also suggest getting a polarising filter and possibly a UV filter for your camera. I find they are quite useful for telephoto shots..

Comment #6

Thank you for your explenation Mark. Its helpful to find my way..

Comment #7

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