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Cheapest camera set up for concerts
What would be the cheapest way to get some good photos of a concert. lets say if I lived near a concert venue that was small enough that they would let me in with a slr so I could practice...

Comments (8)

DancinP wrote:.

What would be the cheapest way to get some good photos of a concert.lets say if I lived near a concert venue that was small enough thatthey would let me in with a slr so I could practice..

Hi.

Any dslr made in the last few years would be fine...Though I would not use an Olympus made BEFORE the E510, but that is just me. Try as many as you can and get what feels right for you. Second hand is ok if you are careful..

Lenses are important for this ...for Pentax there are many cheap prime lenses around that are great if you do not mind manual focus...you can get a 50 1.7 manual focus lens for the price of postage of some other lenses...( a few weeks ago I paid $15 Australian..around 12 US ...for a 55 1.7 topcon k mount lens)..

I use a Pentax K100d and Pentax Ist*D for concerts ...My ist*D is coming up to 5 years old and was /is good for this but I just love the larger lcd and the antishake on the k100d..

These have all been posted before for posts like yours..

This was from 2006 with the Ist*D The Gingers.

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From 2007 with the K100d Master Tang.

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From 2007 Kirsty lee Akers (K100d).

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Jetty Road (K100d from 2007).

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I do everything from metal to jazz..

Lenses are important for this ...for Pentax there are many cheap prime lenses around that are great if you do not mind manual focus...you can get a 50 1.7 manual focus lens for the price of postage of some other lenses...( a few weeks ago I paid $15 Australian..around 12 US ...for a 55 1.7 topcon k mount lens)..

My most used lens is a Tamron 17-35 2.8-4 and I often use a Sigma 28-105 2.8-4.....though a popular lens for this is the Tamron 28-75 2.8 (for most brands)...though it is stabilized on the pentax....I also use fast manual focus primes...though a 50 1.4 af lens or a 30 1.8 af lens would also be great.....I can not wait to try my 85 1.8 (Nikon) lens on my pentax for a gig..

Neil.

Link back to flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/26884588@N00/..

Comment #1

Many concert venues do not allow what they all "professional" cameras. That usually means an interchangeable lens camera or something that looks too much like a DSLR..

Many venues advertise no cameras but most do not mind anything that looks like a P&S..

Something with manual controls and a fairly long and bright zoom from Fuji or Sony or Canon might fit the bill..

Just check out the rules of the venues you are considering before investing in a camera for that purpose..

RegardsJim.

Http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimboutilier/..

Comment #2

Neil, (and everyone), have you tried a denoise program? I tried one on your images 1 and 4 you just posted here with amazing results. I could post them here but I don't want to step on anything..

Club concerts with inherently harsh lighting can allow you shoot at high grainy ISOs and use a denoise program later as normal post processing for this type of shot...

Comment #3

Cheapest, I don't know, you'd have to research your prices for yourself, but any DSLR with a reasonably fast lens (f/2.8 or faster but ideally f/1.8 or f/1.4) should get you there. It really is the lenses that make or break it for concerts, and modern fast lenses don't generally come cheap, especially zooms. So if you want cheap you need to look at primes (fixed focal length)..

Probably the cheapest option would be a Canon Rebel and a 50mm f/1.8.

If you went Nikon, be aware that the entry level models like D40, D60 won't AF unless you have an AF-S lens with an in-lens motor, ruling out most of the fast primes like 50mm, 85mm etc. You would want at least a D80 to get AF with fast primes..

Pentax has a great range of prime lenses and in-camera I.S. which will work with primes. Be sure to research which lenses are AF or MF..

Olympus also has in-camera I.S. with later models and can mount almost any older manual lens via an adapter. This can be a cheap way to get 'fast glass' and I.S. on all lenses, but manual focus is difficult in dark environments. The fast AF lenses like Sigma 30mm f/1.4 or Olympus 50mm f/2 are reasonably expensive.A few examples from my Olympus cameras.E-510 50mm f/2.

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E-510 30mm f/1.4.

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E-510 40-150 f/3.5-4.5.

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E-300 50mm f/2.

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E-300 30mm f/1.4.

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E-300 40-150 f/3.5-4.5.

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Comment #4

Ojohn wrote:.

Neil, (and everyone), have you tried a denoise program? I tried oneon your images 1 and 4 you just posted here with amazing results. Icould post them here but I don't want to step on anything..

Club concerts with inherently harsh lighting can allow you shoot athigh grainy ISOs and use a denoise program later as normal postprocessing for this type of shot..

Hi.

Thats ok I do not mind..

I do have Neatimage but they where all jpegs as taken....other wise it is not about the camera but about pp skills (which I lack anyway and only have an old pc with photoshop 4...anyone remember that?)I actually find the noise as they are acceptable..

It IS better to shoot raw, but I have mostly been shooting to a deadline for a music website or a streetpress newspaper etc...plus I HATE post processing too much (and can come home with a couple of hundred pics to go through including punter pics as well as band shots..

Neil..

Comment #5

Kurt Petersen wrote:.

Cheapest, I don't know, you'd have to research your prices foryourself, but any DSLR with a reasonably fast lens (f/2.8 or fasterbut ideally f/1.8 or f/1.4) should get you there. It really is thelenses that make or break it for concerts, and modern fast lensesdon't generally come cheap, especially zooms. So if you want cheapyou need to look at primes (fixed focal length)..

I would endorse that..

Probably the cheapest option would be a Canon Rebel and a 50mm f/1.8.

If you went Nikon, be aware that the entry level models like D40, D60won't AF unless you have an AF-S lens with an in-lens motor, rulingout most of the fast primes like 50mm, 85mm etc..

I agree.

You would want at least a D80 to get AF with fast primes..

If buying new but if buying used/recond a Nikon D50 will do just as well as a Canon Rebel. Nikon like Canon has a cheap 50mm f/1.8..

A few D50 examples - Different genre but same needs:.

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The gallery these all come from has shots from both my D50 and D80:.

Http://placidod.zenfolio.com/p1045531707/.

(Shots are of a Heritage Opera performance of Donizetti - Elisir d'Amore for the curious.)Chris Elliott.

*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #6

Neil holmes wrote:.

....

It IS better to shoot raw, but I have mostly been shooting to adeadline for a music website or a streetpress newspaper etc..plus IHATE post processing too much (and can come home with a couple ofhundred pics to go through including punter pics as well as bandshots..

I know the feeling and I do shoot RAW! Commonly I might have 300 plus shots to go through and a deadline. The answer is careful and ruthless selection..

I PP the best, bin the worst and then batch process the ordinary shots to JPEG..

Chris Elliott.

*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.

Http://PlacidoD.Zenfolio.com/..

Comment #7

Ok, here are shots 1 and 4. I ran these through my new toy, "Photo! Editor", which is FREE, which you can download at:.

Http://pho.to/editor/.

I posted on the Retouch forum about this program after I first found it and tried it. I'm just playing around with it wherever I can to get more familiar with it...

I have no association with the program..

It has other functions, but for the Denoise, I used it's default. One click. It has manual settings (for individual images) too. And, it will do the Denoise in a directory in a batch mode, (you can select/unselect images in batch mode), so you could just let it run through a whole directory and later choose which version is better. I think I will use it this way the next time I ever do club photos like these..

Remember, this program is FREE and these are done with it's one-click Denoise defaults. It would do just as well or better with the full size original camera image. You could also click the Denoise button again and again, which I did try on these images, with output that would be a matter of taste. These are just Denoised once each:.

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Comment #8

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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