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can they be talked down?
I just read a thread about the use of coupon codes and it prompted talk of special promotions and that lead to the mention of "haggling".

Buying a camera online is one thing. You buy it at the listed price..

And in general, making such a purchase online is going to get you a cheaper price than you could find in a store..

Now... aside from special offers and otherwise advertised events that occur in stores, can the prices be negotiated?Obviously this is going to vary from store to store....

But I live in a big city and we have Ritz, Wolf, Shutterbug, and several others that I cant think of... in terms of big-name camera stores..

Are these types of places generally open to negotiation? Is this like buying a car?.

I had considered making a camera purchase at costco because of their incredible return policy, but price cannot be negotiated there... should I not let the list prices at these stores keep me from walking through the door?..

Comments (7)

When I bought m y first digital camera, I made a list of stuff I wanted, which added up to more than $3000..

I then asked the clerk if the store would sell me everything I wanted for $3,000 cash..

I went to a nearby McDonald's and had a coffee and came back and they gave me lots of stuff and under a dollar in coins in exchange for my 60 $50 bills..

They needed the time to determine what prices to assign various items so that they could key them into the computer. All in all, it was about an extra $200 worth of equipment. (Camera, memory card, flash unit, flash cable, polarizer, a few more things.)..

When I bought my second digital camera I did not use money. I brought in a Leica M4-P, some Leica lenses, a Nikon 80-200 f2.8, and a bunch of little tings (manual focus Canon 50mm f1.4 lens, a broken Spotmatic body, some medium format equipment...).

This turned into several hours of pricing and negotiation. The store (Hanry's, Toronto, downtown) had a price list for used equipment, with a range based on equipment condition. If I bought stuff, I got ten percentmore allowance than if I just took the money. I ended up with a new camera, new kit lens, new 580EX flash, used 420EX flash, used Sigma 24-135 lens, new 50mm f1.8 lens, polarizer, other stuff, and some cash. During the process a lot of numbers were written down, changed, re-written, as everything changed depending on new and used, cash allowances, etc..

BAK..

Comment #1

I've seen that too, with various other products, that the store will offer you more money for an in-store exchange than it will to buy your used stuff (powell's books, is the first that comes to mind)..

Okay... so it can be done (at least at your shop, it did). It's worth trying, the worst they can say is no..

I just wasnt sure if it was common within this context..

My purchase is probably not going to be upwards of 3K though, I'm hoping, actually, that it runs right around $1200 at the most. I hope that doesnt effect their flexibility (though it undoubtedly will) ...

Comment #2

... on a $3000 purchase (about 7% more) of a non-critical luxury item, then you have to ask yourself why you are spending so much on something not critical..

Nobody likes to pay more then necessary for anything. But unless you are reselling those items in volume, a 7% price difference is not terrible. If $200 makes or breaks your budget for a luxury item, then you have bigger problems than affording new camera gear..

I try to negotiate at low-volume dealers whenever I don't think the price is fair-market, and sometimes just for the sport of it. But I don't shop at chain stores... only B&H or Adorama, or on occasion, a local camera-specialty shop; I find that I get the best service for the price that way..

Just my $0.02..

BAK wrote:.

When I bought m y first digital camera, I made a list of stuff Iwanted, which added up to more than $3000..

I then asked the clerk if the store would sell me everything I wantedfor $3,000 cash..

I went to a nearby McDonald's and had a coffee and came back and theygave me lots of stuff and under a dollar in coins in exchange for my60 $50 bills..

They needed the time to determine what prices to assign various itemsso that they could key them into the computer. All in all, it wasabout an extra $200 worth of equipment. (Camera, memory card, flashunit, flash cable, polarizer, a few more things.)..

When I bought my second digital camera I did not use money. I broughtin a Leica M4-P, some Leica lenses, a Nikon 80-200 f2.8, and a bunchof little tings (manual focus Canon 50mm f1.4 lens, a brokenSpotmatic body, some medium format equipment...).

This turned into several hours of pricing and negotiation. The store(Hanry's, Toronto, downtown) had a price list for used equipment,with a range based on equipment condition. If I bought stuff, I gotten percentmore allowance than if I just took the money. I ended upwith a new camera, new kit lens, new 580EX flash, used 420EX flash,used Sigma 24-135 lens, new 50mm f1.8 lens, polarizer, other stuff,and some cash. During the process a lot of numbers were written down,changed, re-written, as everything changed depending on new and used,cash allowances, etc..

BAK.

Galleries: http://www.dheller.net.

Many folks on dpreview.com list their equipment here, but don't list any links to their images. Do they collect equipment? Or take pictures?..

Comment #3

I don't do the big-time wheel and deal. just a polite, matter-of-fact enquiry... "is that your best price?".

Also check you're not getting ripped off on your accessories! some stores have minimal mark-up on major items but big mark up on accessories...

Comment #4

Bugzie wrote:.

I don't do the big-time wheel and deal. just a polite, matter-of-factenquiry... "is that your best price?".

I find that works for me too; although I do sometimes follow it up a few minutes later by asking "are you SURE that's your best price?". It's surprising how much they will sometimes knock off..

Most importantly, do your research in advance. Look at prices in adverts / on the internet and know how much your prepared to pay..

Confused of Malvern.

'The greatest fool can ask more than the wisest man can answer'..

Comment #5

Yes, you have to weigh up how much you're going to pay for good service..

You're probably not going to get good service and a comprehensive range at the large discount stores compared to speciality stores. you're going to do better on-line than at speciality bricks and mortar stores..

It costs money to hire labour to provide good service. going to a bricks and mortar store that provides knowledgeable and good service and has the demo goods for you to handle and try... these guys aren't going to be around much more if everybody turns around and then buys elsewhere at the rock-bottom prices..

But, be fair and ask them for a better price if they can do it. give them a chance. but, no, a couple of hundred on a large purchase isn't going to break the bank if they can't match another vendor..

It's about everybody ending up with a fair deal, not just insisting on the lowest price...

Comment #6

Any of the smaller stores will more than likely give you a good discount as long as your friendly and giving them good business. They're fighting the net and the big chains these days, and most will bend over backwards to keep your business and try and turn you into a repeat customer. Just ask, and they'll either drop a c-note or two off your purchase, or load you up with a bunch of accessories..

On the flip side, it really pisses me off how big box stores treat their customers these days. I don't expect to get some massive discount form them since they deal in volume and are rich enough not to give discounts left and right, but they practically tell you to get lost if you try and haggle. I was looking for a 40" flatscreen a while back, and when I asked the sales guy what kind of deal he could give me, he told me I might as well go shop somewhere else because he wasn't going to be giving any deals...

Comment #7

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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