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Can anybody help a newby?
Hi, If you avoid the Nikon D40 and D40X models which only work on newer Nikon lenses, most (but not all) modern Nikon-mount A/F lenses will work. If you have the specific lens types, you can double-check with Nikon's website. There is also the Fuji S5 Pro (and it's older brother the S3 Pro) which takes Nikon lenses too. If you've got may compatible lenses, it can be a great advantage to reuse those on a Nikon DSLR. - Itai.

Www.neocamera.com..

Comments (6)

Hi, I have just bought a Cannon S3 IS digital camera, but it doesn't have a memory card.

What is the best card to used with the camera,..

Comment #1

John, Itai is 100% right with his advice. And, if you have a large selection of lenses I can see why you want to keep them. Don't forget two things, though. First, all your lenses will get a 1.5x magnification factor (from the smaller sensor) so you will have lots of "telephoto" lenses, but no wide angle. Second, the characteristics of the 35mm lenses are not optimised for digital - and that makes a difference. Whether it makes sufficient difference to you is another matter.

They are the only manufacturer to design for digital from scratch. I personally am impressed with the results. Also, IMO, the Olympus are far and away the best handling cameras becuase of the access to all settings through thescreen display (as well as buttons and menus). However, it is a big decision, and not an easyone if you have a substantial investment in glass. (Which, after all, is why Canon & nikon chose to go to market with film derived cameras.

Going digital is an intensely liberating experience. You can see many samples of the Olympus on my blog ( http://londondailyphoto.blogspot.com ) Ham.

===.

Http://londondailyphoto.blogspot.com..

Comment #2

Exactly what is meant by the term "camera shake"???????..

Comment #3

The slight shake of your hands shows in photos as unsharp, blurred pictures. The longer the telephoto, the worse the blur/the easier it show up. The traditional rule of thumb is to combat blur due to shake the shutter speed should be 1/focal length secs. Ie a typical point and shoot at wide is (say) 35mm, so get the shutter to be 1/30s or faster for a good chance of having a sharp picture. A super zoom at 432mm , would need a shutter speed of 1/432s or faster. Many modern cameras have stabilisation to help with camera shake.

Most dslrs have expensive lenses available with image stabilisation/vibration reduction built in, while some dlsrs have stabilisation "in body" meaning any lens automatically gains IS .. Stabilisation only helps to reduce blur due to hand shake, not due to the subject moving while the shutter is open. In that case the only thing that helps is a faster shutter speed or flash to freeze the subject. Indeed Fuji have a series of excellent digicams not stabilised, with a superb sensor for low light shots enabling fast shutter speeds. Most manufacturers advise turning stabilisation off while on a tripod...

Comment #4

I have a SONY DSC-W50 and I cannot stop the action, for example ,we have a 2yr. baby and I want to take pictures and stop the action at the proper time. What should I do? Thanks...

Comment #5

Digicams can be fairly slow to react, this means you have to anticipate a fair amount to capture action...

Comment #6

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This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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