Is your computer screen calibrated? If not, try something like the Pantone Huey. Also, camera screens are not the best to judge with either. Many camera screens are made to be brighter so they can be seen better in daylight. It's better to look at the histogram to judge exposure..
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You cannot trust the camera screen to gauge exposure. If it's like mine you can adjust the backlight briteness. If it's up for outdoors it's wrong for indoors and vis versa..
You need to learn how to read the histogram to check exposure or learn how to use your lightmeter so that you can trust that you got the exposure right..
Likewise, what makes you so sure that your computer screen is telling you the truth? Maybe the exposure is fine and your computer monitor is misadjusted.A member of the rabble in good standing..
As the others have said, the camera screen is unreliable and your computer screen is no better if you haven't calibrated it..
But if you post a shot or two here it'll be easy to tell you roughly what the score is. Maybe one 'as shot' and your corrected version of the same image...
Thanks for the interesting replies. I will check the histogram and use my light meter to double check where I am at. How does one calibrate the comp screen? I haven't progressed to the point of being able to post images on the forum yet. Getting there though...
How does onecalibrate the comp screen?.
Calibration may not help - if the screen is too old it simply may not be able to render shadow detail or highlight detail the way newer screens can...
If you have a 30D, try shooting RAW+JPG format. The RAW format will look better than JPG if you have to adjust 2 stops and allows you to bring up the low areas without blowing out the highlights. Use the DPP software that came with your camera and play with the RAW tools..
Some LCD Monitors also vary in brightness with angle of view which can skew your results...
Steve Balcombe wrote:.
As the others have said, the camera screen is unreliable and yourcomputer screen is no better if you haven't calibrated it..
But if you post a shot or two here it'll be easy to tell you roughlywhat the score is. Maybe one 'as shot' and your corrected version ofthe same image..
Although it would swamp most forums if everyone unclear on end results were to post for comparisons and judgements..
I know it's a problem that even if calibrated, the wide spread of settings or performance of user monitors may make this a lost cause. I know that when I try to use my monitor, then histograms, and use some of the different site "calibration" tools, that what I get looks good but when I pull up on some other folks screens, it's way off. A lot of monitors, lcds as well, are set for general use, for games, etc., and are much too bright in comparison..
But some calibrated postings and their histograms might be a good refernce/learners tool on one of these sites. (And with a dounloadable file, it could aid in checking the users monitors as well.)..
A relatively simple way to check is to actually print ( at a photographic shop ) some sample shots at 6x4. The photo machines are quite accurate and reasonable references for non-professionals to use..
A calibration kit is rather over the top for normal folk, IMO. This method is cheap ( and dirty ) and not as accurate as a calibration kit, but for normal use works fine..
Compare the results ( which will be accurate representations of what the camera recorded ) with what you see on screen..
Try and adjust you monitor ( or LCD ) to as close to the midtone colors you see on the print. You will find it almost impossible to match the very dark and very bright parts of the image, but these are less of an issue visually ( for people ). You should be able to get the 'overall' brightness and contrast close enough..
Check in particular if your monitor.LCD has an sRGB setting and use this is you can. This is generally 'good enough' unless you artificially brighten or darken or turn contrast too far on your monitor/LCD..
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