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are these photos washed out? (2 images)
The building on the top.

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The tree on the left.

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And how do you prevent this?..

Comments (7)

New_type wrote:.

Are these washed out?.

Yes, the highlights are blown. You are basically exceeding the dynamic range of your camera's sensor.

And how do you prevent this?.

It is difficult, especially with small sensor cameras like your Panasonic/ It is sometimes possible to avoid blown skies by using a polarizing filter, but his only works with the sun at certain angles. Graduated neutral density filters would also work..

One sure fire way is to take more than one shot, exposing one for the highlights and another for the shadows. The two or more shots can then be merged in PhotoShop  this usually called high dynamic range (HDR) photography..

Brian A...

Comment #1

The first picture is from canon A20, the second one is panasonic. if this is a dynamic range problem, does that mean if I have a DSLR, it wouldn't happen?..

Comment #2

Blown highlights and these cannot be corrected. I prefer to underexpose than overexpose because under-exposure is partially recoverable ( more so with RAW ) but over-exposure is almost always "fatal"..

Avoiding blown highlights ( which is not always possible ) is best tried by using a combination of Exposure Compensation ( look this up on the web and on and (sometimes) trying the multiple exposure trick and merging. Merging is only practical when the scene is static - nothing moving..

The learn/glossary section on dpreview will start you off..

There is a technique called "expose to the right" which is advanced and best suited to RAW, although possible to some extent with JPEGs. When you have the hang of basic exposure look at this..

A DSLR won't help. They have a larger dynamic range, but this is not very much larger in highlights. Understand the basic techniques of exposure and exposure compensation and this will help on all cameras..

And, for emphasis, it is not always possible to avoid blown highlights. It is sometimes a question of deciding what part of an image is the part you want, because you cannot have it all..

StephenG.

Pentax K100DFuji S5200Fuji E900PCLinuxOS..

Comment #3

New_type wrote:.

The first picture is from canon A20, the second one is panasonic..

Actually, it is the other way around.

Ifthis is a dynamic range problem, does that mean if I have a DSLR, itwouldn't happen?.

No, it still happens with dSLRs too, but not as often..

Metering could allow you to save the highlights, but only at the expensive of the shadows. In order to save the highlights you would have to have under exposed shadow areas. The second shot would have certainly been better a little under exposed. But the metering dosn't change the fact that whatever exposue setting is chosen, that setting applies to the whole sensor..

Here is a before and after polarizer shot, note the blown roof in the first shot:.

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Brian A...

Comment #4

If you don't mind doing postprocessing, the quick and dirty approach is to set your camera to center-weighted metering, then expose for the bright area, freeze the exposure (generally by half-pressing the shutter release), reframe and shoot. This will expose the bright area correctly and underexpose the rest. In postprocessing (assuming Photoshop Elements) you go to enhance/lighting/shadows&highlights and lighten the shadows. Very often the default 25% lightening of shadows when you open the tool does the trick..

WillWill PrattBarrick Museum, UNLV..

Comment #5

Sjgcit wrote:.

I prefer tounderexpose than overexpose because under-exposure is partiallyrecoverable ( more so with RAW ) but over-exposure is almost always"fatal"..

Noob going out on a limb here, but I disagree. I would do the exact oposite..

And if I'm wrong, my sincere apologies..

Tom..

Comment #6

Tnordahl wrote:.

Sjgcit wrote:.

I prefer tounderexpose than overexpose because under-exposure is partiallyrecoverable ( more so with RAW ) but over-exposure is almost always"fatal"..

Noob going out on a limb here, but I disagree. I would do the exactoposite..

Well, IMO you are sort of right. With a single shot you don't want to over or under expose, but either expose for the highlights or expose for the shadows. Exposing for the highlights will allow you to bring some detail out of the underexposed shadows in PP, but the results will show more noise. Exposing for the shadows will blow the highlights, and blown highlights are not retrievable..

In situation where no clipping will occur, "exposing to the right" will give you more detail. "Exposing to the right" is a term used for pushing the histogram as for to the right as it will go before the highlights are clipped..

Brian A...

Comment #7

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