Your walking into a pretty difficult situation: low-light sporting events (the flood lights won't be that bright most likely). You'll need higher shutter speeds to stop the action, which means you'll need to crank up the ISO and open the lens up wide to get good results. You don't mention what type of equipment you have, but here are some general tips:.
Keep your shutter speed up, espcially for action shots. Even if you have Image Stabilized lenses (or camera body), it won't help to freeze the action on the field. You may want to try locking in a shutter speed on the camera (shutter-speed priority mode) - try something like 1/250 if there's enough light..
Crank up the ISO. Depending on your camera, go up to ISO 800 or higher, espcially if it starts to get dim..
Work on focus and tracking techniques, use tracking focus if you camera supports it..
You probably won't be shooting into the lights much, but if they are causing problems switch your metering to a more focused spot; terminology will vary depending on the camera but look for center weighted or even spot metering..
Review your results as you shoot, check for exposure, and zoom in to check for motion blur..
Matthew Sims wrote:.
Hi all. I am going to a rugby game on friday evening and waswondering what should be the best settings for my camera. I wouldwant to take some close shots (providing the game comes anywherenear) and distance shots. Kick off is at 7.10 so the flood lightswill be on!! If they are glaring at me how can I overcome theproblems??.
Thanks in Advance...
Thanks - Great advice! The stadium is new and the lights are very bright - does this change any of your advice??..
Not much really... the lights will be overhead so they probably won't get in the way much, and they're set up to cover the entire field, so you shouldn't have too many problems with excess contrast or shadows. The main problem will simply be the ammount of light. Even at professional games in the US with lighting set up for television, you'll still see the pro photographers with giant lenses (300 or 400mm f/2.8 monsters) and shooting at ISO 800 or higher. Finding the right shutter speed will be key - The faster you can shoot the better - a lot of pro stuff will be as fast as 1/1000, just to keep the action sharp..
Keep depth-of-field in mind in the back of your head as well. You'll be generally shooting wide open, which should be fine if you focusing in on a single player. However, if your shooting more than one person you may need to stop down a bit, espcially if you have a fast lens - the DOF on long lenses can get pretty shallow wide open...
Also possible you may get a weird color shift but that can be corrected somewhat afterwards. Depending on what kind of lights they are using..
Good luck. Like the advice you already got...get the fastest shutter speed you can but also remember a great image can be great and not totally sharp.....go for the action.'The moment you think your great is the moment you quit learning.'http://www.gawalters.com..
I have tried photographing rugby games both in Bath and at Twickenham. I use a DSLR with a 70-300mm lens. You really need sunlight to get good action shots so I think that you will be very lucky to get anything at all with your Fuji S5800 under floodlights..
Try concentrating on scrums and lineouts close to where you are sitting, preferably before the ball goes in so there isn't much movement. Or take shots of players during breaks in the play or after the end of the game..
Getting good action shots requires a good position, e.g. behind the in-goal area, a fast focussing camera, a long lens, very good light and lots of patience and concentration. I gave up taking a camera to games when I realised that you can either take photographs or follow the game, but you can't do both..
Best of luck and let us know if you get any reasonable shots.Chris R..
Hi chris! Cheers for the advice will upload if I get any good shots!! Sitting in the front row so fingers crossed!!..